While first impressions of Athens centre on the old, the more time you spend in the city, the more your eye wanders towards the new.
It might be the cradle of civilisation, but Greece's capital is also becoming a thoroughly modern metropolis.
The juxtaposition of the ancient world and the 21st century creates glaring contrasts that take some getting used to.
The ruins on the Acropolis are accompanied by giant cranes helping to preserve the ancient religious centre of the city, while gleaming new thoroughfares run alongside the ancient Agora, where democracy and philosophy were born.
But, while the beauty of Athens was once shrouded in a fog of pollution and traffic fumes, now the city is able to breathe more easily in its tree-lined streets and fountain-enhanced squares.
Inner-city development is a global phenomenon, but rarely can the entire fabric of an area have changed as dramatically or as quickly as it has in Athens.
The city has undergone a complete overhaul in the last two years, and the reason has been simple - the Olympic Games.
Hosting the Games seemed a long way off when Nicos Dabizas left an under-developed and under-pressure Athens to join Newcastle United seven years ago.
But, since then, the city that gave the world some of its finest architecture more than two millenia ago has finally started to build for the future.
"Athens is a different city after the Olympic Games," said the centre-half. "People who visited the city in the past will be amazed at how things have changed. It's a different world.
"Everybody knows about the ancient Greek sites such as the Acropolis, but the new Athens is just as important. There are new bars and restaurants springing up everywhere and the city has never been so vibrant."
More than 1,400 buildings were renovated before the start of this summer's Games, with 7,500 trees, 30,000 bushes and 600,000 flowers planted to add colour.
But by far the most impressive overhaul was carried out on the city's decaying transport system. Two new lines and more than 50 extra kilometres were added to the Metro system, a brand new tramway was built to the coast and a new suburban railway was created at the edge of the city.
"The infrastructure is finally in place," said Dabizas. "Now you can get from one place to another efficiently and easily.
"It's been a long time coming but it's been worth the wait. Athens is a much better place in which to live, work and play."
Hosting the Olympics meant that Athens had to improve its rotting transport network - perhaps winning the Games is the only thing that can prompt a similar change closer to home.
I have now spent two days travelling around the Greek capital and, last Sunday, I spent what seemed to be as long trying to get to Charlton and back to cover Newcastle.
Our capital has replaced Athens as the worst city to get around in Europe. Could the Olympics work similar magic in London's East End?
After their summer success in Portugal, football is currently massive in Greece although Panionios, it seems, have slipped below the radar.
There wasn't a strip or scarf in sight in Athens' numerous sports shops, with pride of place going to the city's big three - AEK, Panathinaikos and Olympiakos.
Apparently it was like asking for a Gateshead top in Fenwick's - just with less former Byker Grove cast members showing you round.
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