I WAS rootling out a few bottles in my cellar the other day and started humming The 12 Days of Christmas. Couldn't get it out of my head, especially the milkmaids. It finally dawned on me that all those leaping lords, French hens and the partridge were telling me I would need a dozen different wines for the festive season. One for each of the days? Not exactly, but these will see you through all eventualities from 1 December to New Year's Day.

1. Red of the year

My favourite wine of the year is the breathtaking 2001 Cabernet-Merlot, Arlewood (£12.95, Vin du Van*) sourced from Australia's Margaret River by a passionate independent wine merchant. This is serious (but not scowling) red with truly classic depth of flavour - blackcurrants and black plums mixed with cherry marzipan; coriander seed scent rubbing along with crystallized violet leaves.

2. White of the year

2002 Semillon, Tim Adams (£7.99, Tesco) is a great Aussie original from the Clare Valley with fantastic layers of flavour. The first sip seems to be all green apple peel and lemon juice. Gradually the flavour opens out into custard and warm bread crust and cake spice.

3. Party red

Refreshing fruity flavour is the key for party wines. If I could give one piece of advice to bargain hunters today, it is - head for Chile. Via Sainsbury's. Chilean Merlot (£2.99, Sainsbury's) has refreshing leafy acidity to brighten up its easygoing, gluggable ripe red fruit. Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon (£2.99, Sainsbury's) is more powerful with a surge of dark chocolate and blackcurrant.

4. Party white

For whites, Asda has pulled off another Chilean coup. 2003 Chilean Chardonnay (£2.97, Asda) is a surprisingly leafy dry white with soft peach and green apple fruit. Its counterpart is 2003 Chilean Sauvignon Blanc (£2.97, Asda) - really fresh, with tangy lemon leaf and green apple flavour.

5. Sherry, anybody?

After Gordon Ramsey's Hell's Kitchen series ramped up sales for sponsor Tio Pepe, sherry is definitely back in vogue. That's the proper dry Spanish stuff. Tio Pepe is a top tipple but also try Extra Dry Fino Sherry (£5.03, Tesco). For a warming Christmas-carols flavour go for Rich Cream Sherry (£6.49, Waitrose), a soothing rich syrup of raisins, sultanas and figs. Great for the vocal cords.

6. Christmas dinner red

Pinot Noir is well suited to turkey and its accompaniments. 2003 Pinot Noir, Lenbridge Forge (£8.99, Marks & Spencer) from the Yarra Valley in Australia has lovely loganberry and strawberry fruit, a scent of polished leather and just a scratch of tannin and acidity. If you prefer to stick with a traditional claret, 2001 Ctes de Castillon, Seigneurs d'Aiguilhe (£7.99, Waitrose) offers all the classical, understated style you could want at a brilliant price with just-picked black cherry and black plum fruit.

7. Christmas dinner white

In my house we often sup a zingy Sauvignon Blanc in the run-up to Christmas dinner, then carry on when we start eating - because it sails through all those stuffings and sauces and keeps your mouth refreshed for the next forkful of turkey. The 2003 New Zealand versions are all good but 2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Fairleigh Estate (£6.99, Majestic), made by the trendy Wither Hills winery, is particularly full-bodied, dry and zesty. Alternatively try an amazing-value wine from Cyprus. 2002 Semillon, Mountain Vines (£4.29, Co-op) is beautifully round, soft and balanced with refreshing lemon acidity cutting across juicy nectarine fruit and custard-cream oak.

8. After dinner

Late bottled vintage port (or LBV), when properly done, brings you a lot of the flavours of vintage port, but without the brute power and majestic depth - and at less than half the price. Try 1998 The Society's LBV (£9.50, Wine Society*).

9. Queen's speech

Drink a loyal toast with one of the best English fizzes around, 2000 Bloomsbury Cuve Merret Brut, Ridgeview Estate (£14.99, Waitrose) - a gorgeous rich yet dry fizz, like Ovaltine cut through with apple peel and lemon acidity and a torrent of foam.

10. The pick-me-up

Banish the winter blues with a sip of Rutherglen Muscat, Campbells (£7.99, Oddbins) oozing with the exotic, viscous essence of the Muscat grape, dripping with the sweetness of dates, sultanas, dried figs and moist muscovado sugar.

11. A winter warmer

2002 Directors Cut Shiraz, Heartland (£13.99, Oddbins) is as rich as you could want Shiraz to be, packed with blackberry fruit, toffee oak, a penetrating scent of limes and the kind of menthol fire that would clear your sinuses on a wet Wednesday in Glasgow. The regular Heartland Shiraz (£7.99) is also excellent.

12. New Year fizz

Champagne, even the basic stuff, is too expensive for a party wine, but I've found some exciting alternatives this year. First there's Sparkling White Burgundy (£7.99, Waitrose) with a refreshing, austere Chablis-like flavour and fine foaming bubbles. England scores again with appley, dry but gentle English Sparkling Brut (£7.99, Co-op). Similar wine appears elsewhere under the Chapel Down label. For a real bargain check out cut-price supermarket Cava.