THE last time I slept with the light on I was about four years old. The light in question was one of those glow-in-the-dark plug-in things, which cast just enough light to see if my collection of My Little Ponies was about to turn into My Little Monsters and attack me in the middle of the night.

Twenty-eight years later, I'm driving from Alicante airport in Spain with mum and friend to stay at a cave retreat, just west of the seaside town of Puerto de Mazarron on the Costa Calida, near Murcia.

I'm wondering if there's a shop which may sell glow-in-the-dark plug-in things. I'm also wondering how to explain to the others that I might need the light on if I've any chance of sleeping in this pitch-black, can't-see-your-hand-in-front-of-your-face, abode.

Mick Cole, co-owner of the retreat, Aspirations, meets us at a local bar. We follow him off the main road and onto a dried-out river bed, which ends up being the rough track up to the house and caves. The parched trail continues past dozens of plastic polytunnels filled (we later learn) with rows of tomato crops.

This is working Spain and not exactly the palm tree-lined haven we had imagined. But once we stop and climb the rustic stairs to the cave retreat, past the olive groves, we realise we've found somewhere pretty special.

"The caves date back hundreds of years, and are a constant 18C, even in summer," explains Sue, Mick's wife, as she shows us around. "They're great because they're cool in summer and warm in winter."

Our whitewashed cave house has three bedrooms and a small lounge. There are two other caves, each with their own lounges, which brings the number of beds to 11.

Inside the cave, pretty duvets adorn the beds and rugs are scattered across the blue painted stone floors, with lacework on the bedside tables. The wardrobe was made by Mick, points out Sue, by chiselling away at a chunk of rock and putting in a hanging rail. He also extended the third bedroom with his chisel and hammer - "to make a bit more room".

"I felt like the Count of Monte Cristo by the time I'd finished," he laughs.

There are no windows in our room, although my friend's room has one set into the rockface. "Just how dark does it get at night?" I venture.

"Oh, you can't see your hand in front of your face," says Mick, in his gentle Brummie accent. I take note of the lamp in the lounge.

Mick, 44, and Sue, 41, opened Aspirations in August 2003. As well as renovating the caves, the couple built on an extension, providing a kitchen, bathrooms and a huge lounge, complete with a cosy log burner. It is this space which is great for indoor yoga or meditation sessions if it's raining - but that's a rare occurrence, as the region enjoys an average of 315 days of sunshine a year.

The pair initially looked at buying in Tenerife or Gran Canaria, but they eventually settled on Spain, moving with daughter Tori, aged seven, from Solihull in the Midlands. Mick had already given up work as an electrician to focus on being a reflexologist and Sue, who's originally from Dublin, later trained in Reiki.

Now they offer a range of therapies such as aromatherapy, remedial massage, reflexology, Indian head massage and sports massage. A salt water swimming pool has just been put in and they can also offer tailor-made residential stays.

"We're open to anything and everything really," says Mick. "If people want to come here and go climbing, running, cycling or just to relax, we can cater for it."

For our treatments, we are led to an old water cooler, which has been renovated to provide three treatment rooms. The music gently wafts over each of us as Sue, Mick, and therapist Lindsay work their magic.

I have a Reiki session with Sue. Reiki is an ancient healing technique which concentrates on areas of the body to re-balance energy fields. When the treatment starts I find it hard to still my over-active mind. I lie there in the semi-darkness, willing her to hurry up because I don't think I can last an hour with my brain formulating a "what to do" list for when I get back home.

Then a strange thing happens. Sue has been holding her hands over different parts of my body for minutes at a time. When she reaches my neck, I feel the area heat up and at the same time my thoughts begin to quieten - as if someone is turning the volume down in my brain.

Next, I start to see swirling green colours before my eyes, like wisps of green smoke, which Sue later says is the colour of healing. (It's quite fascinating considering my neck has been subject to a whiplash injury and a minor operation).

For the rest of the session, I fall into a deep state of relaxation. Later, I have a facial and Indian head massage, and stagger out of the treatment rooms into the sun, my face scrunched up like a newborn puppy.

I fall through the door to the caves, with my hair looking like I've stuck my finger in a socket.

"Oh she's gone," declares my mum, much to her amusement. "Earth to Lindsay," she says. "Anyone in there?" (Although she looks just as sleepy with her hair similarly stuck on end).

Mick and Sue discreetly busy themselves, setting up the dinner table as we stare intently at the log burner, incapable of conversation.

Then we devour Sue's homecooking: deep fried baquera (a local cheese) and salad, followed by tuna and mushroom loaf with parsley sauce and carrot and beet salad, washed down with local red wine.

Aftewards, Sue brings out a home-cooked lemon meringue pie - absolutely delicious - which she leaves in the fridge so we can have another slice later if we fancy. My friend says she doesn't want a piece at dinner, but come 8pm, she's creeping over to the fridge and helping herself to a huge portion.

"Want some?" she says, meringue stuck to her lips.

While we are eating, Mick and Sue have wandered back to their home across the way and we enjoy the rest of the evening watching the log burner and the odd woodlice.

Breakfast is a wonderful choice of egg and cheese omelette, fruit, cereal, croissants and yoghurts. Feeling rather stuffed, we head off for some picturesque local coves at Playa de Calnegre, a few minutes drive away.

Back at the caves, we read before bedtime. My insomniac friend reports the next morning that she's had the best night's sleep in a long time. We decide the caves are rather spiritual, almost womb-like. They're incredibly quiet too, and after only two nights away from the stress of our hectic lives we feel invigorated.

"Even though we're in such a remote place, there's so much life around here and so many different people," says Mick. "We love it here."

And after a weekend, we do too - even if we slept with the light on.

TRAVELFACTS

* Lindsay stayed at Aspirations on a half-board basis, however Mick and Sue can also offer self-catering. A three night stay costs from 135 euros for one self-catering and 195 euros half-board. For groups of four to six they offer course leaders a 25 per cent discount; a 50 per cent discount for leaders of five to seven and a free stay for leaders of 8 to 11 people.

For more information contact 0034 968 138 347 or visit their website at www.aspirations.infoholix.net.

* She flew to Alicante, with Jet2.com from Leeds/Bradford Airport. Jet 2.com also fly to Murcia, about an hour's drive from Aspirations, as well as a host of other destinations including Amsterdam, Barcelona, Nice and Palma. For more information, including details of bargain breaks throughout January, February and March from £16.99 including taxes, log onto www.jet2.com

* A car was hired with Europcar which can be contacted on 0870 607 5000 or at www.europcar.co.uk.