For almost 150 years the British and French fought over the island of St Lucia. It had changed hands 14 times when power was finally ceded to the British. It didn't take me long to see why neither wished to let go of this island paradise.

Whether it is an active holiday or pure relaxation you seek, St Lucia has both in abundance. While many holiday resorts may offer a selection of sports, few can compete with the adventures of scuba diving in warm crystal waters among soft coral or racing through a rainforest on a top-of-the-range mountain bike.

The sub-tropical climate is cooled by trade winds, with average temperatures at 26C to 28C all year round, and even when it rains the temperatures remain pleasant. Any rainfall seems to be short-lived with average outbursts lasting a matter of ten minutes or so. On one occasion we found ourselves sunbathing in the rain on the beach - a strange sensation, with the sun to our left and the clouds and rain coming from our right.

St Lucia is a food-lover's island and as I definitely fall into that category I was off to a fine start. Diners can sample the local Creole cuisine and may notice the French influence in many of the island's dishes.

Every night in St Lucia seems to be party night but on Fridays this is elevated to carnival status. The local people are extremely friendly and all too keen for tourists join in the fun. In most places in Europe if a group of lads dances with the local girls it can be met with hostility. Here however, we were given a round of applause by the local boys and told we 'represent well'.

I had never been horse riding before, but the chance to ride through a woodland track on to the beach and into the sea was one I could not miss. The horses knew the route off by heart though they needed a little encouragement to enter the water. Riding along the soft sand with the luscious emerald green hills behind me and the clear blue sea in front, I felt as close to nature as I could get.

Not so relaxing, but another opportunity not to be missed, was the jungle biking. This involves 12 miles of track through rainforest terrain in Anse Chastanet. The trails are colour-coded to indicate difficulty levels. Having done a little mountain biking through forests in this country, I was never going to take the green-code stroll-in-the-park routes and the more challenging proved quite an adrenaline rush. The bikes supplied were all Cannondales, which cost from about £2,000, so this was the ideal kit to really go for it. I've no doubt that if I'd tried to push myself as hard on my own bike I would have come a cropper. The standard of the bikes here was typical of the island's attitude towards tourism - nothing but the best will do.

The roads are windy and often steep. There is a lot to see around this island and it would be an ideal place to hire a 4x4. Alternatively, travelling by sea is usually quite relaxing.

In the south-west of the island is Soufriere, home of the world's only drive-in volcano with its bubbling holes of sulphuric waters. The nearby spring water is supposed to have regenerative powers, taking ten years off anyone who bathes in it. Disappointingly, no-one has mentioned the difference since my return, but relaxing in the warm water pools felt therapeutic all the same.

Close by is one of the island's many waterfalls. Torraille Falls may not be the most spectacular, but it is still impressive and a dip under this 60ft fall is invigorating and great fun.

The island has a selection of heritage tours and on a trip to a plantation we learned about the methods of growing tropical fruit, and were taught how to cook, sing and dance Creole-style. I was happy to have a go at the traditional wood sawing techniques, working along to the rhythm of Creole chanting. The men who do this can work and sing all day, but try to use brute strength to get through these logs and you'll quickly burn out.

St Lucia is a growing attraction in the yachting world. It has a fine selection of bays and harbours in idyllic settings. We managed to join the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers party. In the ARC more than 200 boats leave Gran Canaria around November 25, with the first yacht arriving in St Lucia in the first week in December. And when these crews land, they sure know how to party.

Any yachtsmen wanting to dine somewhere special should visit Marigot Bay where the Rainforest Hideaway offers exquisite food with live music. The restaurant is accessible by road, but how often can you reach one by water?

Accommodation plays a large part in any holiday and I was certainly impressed with the Royal St Lucian, in Castries, with its immaculate, spacious rooms overlooking the sea and excellent food. The other hotels I visited were also of a high standard. It seems impossible to find a room without a view on this island.

At Anse Chastanet the rooms have been built into the hillside and, although this can mean a bit of a steep hike, the views make it worthwhile.

But it was while visiting LeSport, in Castries, that I discovered my dream holiday. Located on the sea front, the hotel has everything you could wish for to recharge your batteries. Billing itself as the first body/mind holiday, the spa provides the perfect break for the health conscious. LeSport organises guided expeditions through the tropical woodlands, offering a chance to explore the exotic island away from the beaten track. In addition to the usual massages and body treatments, the hotel runs fitness activities all day long. Classes include Pilates, yoga, tai chi and boxercise.

St Lucia has long been regarded as a honeymooners' island and, while this is easy to understand, the island has much more to offer. The new bmi flights from Manchester Airport will bring the cost of holidays down and with a TransPennine direct train route to the airport from Darlington, travel to the Caribbean couldn't be easier.

TRAVELFACTS

bmi flies directly from Manchester to the Caribbean islands of Barbados, Antigua and St Lucia. Flights depart for Barbados twice a week on Friday and Wednesday, and for Antigua and St Lucia once a week on Saturday and Monday respectively. Return economy flights start from £403.

For lowest fares, flight times and other information visit www.flybmi.com.

Thomas Cook Signature have a 7-night stay at the Royal St Lucian from £1,249 per person. This is based on two adults sharing a twin room and includes accommodation, continental breakfast and air travel with bmi from Manchester.

For further information contact Thomas Cook Signature on 0870 443 4570 or see www.tcsignature.com