I LOVE carpets, me. No, this isn't a not-so-subliminal plug for a certain carpet retailer best-known for his indescribably awful "factory flooring" radio advertisements.

But I do like carpet, especially since the popularity of wood flooring, which now appears to be the covering of choice for all those who wish to create a modern interior.

In the restaurant/bar business in particular something arboreal underfoot seems to be de riguer in every establishment boasting a contemporary setting. Fashionable it may be, but does it have to everywhere?

So it was a real pleasure to walk in to the Talbot in Bishopton, near Stockton, to note all the usual modern restaurant fixtures and fittings - the high-back slatted chairs, the architectural floral arrangements, the subtle downlighting etc - and, praise be, find ourselves walking on a deep-pile carpet. How pass, but how refreshing.

There's more to the Talbot than the ambience and the quality of the Axminster, though. The food's good too.

Head chef Craig Robinson has previously worked at the highly rated Three Tuns at Osmotherley and his menus feature some very original dishes.

Seared scallops topped with smoked bacon and Wensleydale cheese and a mint dressing (at £6.95 the priciest starter) was Sylvia's choice and she was not disappointed. The scallops were nicely plump, still slightly squidgy and the mint dressing was a surprisingly effective foil.

My roasted duck parcels on a bed of deep-fried chives with a plum sauce (£5.95) was not such a triumph. The filo pastry was certainly crisp but it was quite thick so the layer round the duck was very soft. Although the flavour was good the gooey plum sauce made for a somewhat cloying combination.

We could also have chosen from the starters' menu a melon, mango and kiwi carpaccio with a mixed berry compote (£4.95) or a tartlet of wild mushrooms, pine nuts, red pepper and confit onion and pesto dressing (£5.25).

Our main course choices were both excellent. Sylvia's rump of lamb on a bed of cabbage and bacon with fondant potatoes and a red wine reduction (£12.95) was heartiness personified, the lamb had that rich muttony flavour that's hard to find these days.

I had chosen crab-crusted fillet of salmon on a shellfish pesto mash with a saffron sauce and crme fraiche (£14.95) out of curiosity as much as anything else. I was intrigued by the combination on paper. On the plate it proved to be much better than expected; perhaps the salmon was slightly overcooked.

Other main courses included grilled chicken supreme on a duck cake with a Drambuie and shallot reduction (£13.95).

Sylvia gave up on the pudding course so I had the lonesome task of tackling a perfectly fine exotic fruit cheese cake (£3.95).

Coffees brought the bill to a shade under £50 - an excellent meal for an excellent price.

A number of the a la carte options appear on the lunchtime and tea time menu (5.30-7pm, one course £7.95, two £9.95 and three £11.95) and there's also a selection of bar meal dishes available from £6.95.

Frank (of factory flooring fame) would undoubtedly have approved of the range of choice - and the carpet.

Revisited

In January 2004 we reported on the Grange Arms at Hornby, Great Smeaton. It was scored highly in all four categories. It has changed hands but recent reports are favourable, the pub having benefited from refurbishment and a new menu. A recent Sunday lunch was very good.