IT'S not often in these weekly descriptions of meals to be eaten across the breadth of D&S land that the waiting staff take top billing.

And that's not to say that we don't think service is important. It is and that's why every establishment gets rated on this fundamental aspect of eating out.

But it is rare when service make such an impression that we have to tell you about it first. So step forward Thomas Daniel, of the Angel Inn at Topcliffe. Thomas is 15 but looks younger and he looked after us on our recent visit.

This young man was a joy to meet. So adept was he at serving, so confident about everything he did at the table, I was stupid enough to ask him where he trained when it was pretty obvious that this was just a part time job for a schoolboy, albeit a very clever one

The man responsible for drilling young Thomas is the Angel's general manager Jonathan Davies and he clearly sets high standards elsewhere, particularly in the kitchen.

In fact we'd go so far as to say that the Angel is the equal of its illustrious near-neighbour, the Crab and Lobster in the next village of Asenby.

We couldn't fault anything, in truth.

Sylvia's Salad Nicoise (£4.75)was simply very good. So often this classic is mucked about with all sorts of alien ingredients. This stuck to the original formula of green beans, tuna, tomato, soft-boiled egg and dressing.

My smoked chicken and sun blushed tomato fettucini (£4.75) was an excellent combination featuring some succulent chunks of chicken and correctly al dente pasta.

This was followed by a breast of duck with peppered cabbage and a caramelised sweet and sour sauce (£13.75). I'm not sure what they feed on ducks on in Topcliffe but this was the plumpest and juiciest piece of poultry I've encountered in years. The sweet and sour was a good foil for the richness of the duck.

Sylvia's roast loin of pork with Toulouse sausage and haricot bean cassoulet (£10.95) was another classic combination. The pork was beautifully moist and the cassoulet beans had retained just the right element of crunchiness.

After two substantial dishes, a dessert was pushing it but my rhubarb confit with Pontefract ice cream (£5,25) proved to be a worthy temptress, the vanilla ice cream infused with liquorice working well with the sharpness of the rhubarb.

Sensibly, Sylvia abstained but enjoyed a decent latte coffee (£1.50). The bill, excluding wine, came to £40. An absolute steal.

We had made our choices from the restaurant's specials menu but there is also an extensive a la carte and, in the bar, another selection of dishes. All are produced by head chef Norman Mackenzie, recruited last October from Bagden Hall in Denby Dale, and his team.

This establishment would have been heading for the perfect four fours in the ratings below if it hadn't been for the somewhat lack-lustre decor. Although the restaurant was only refurbished three and a bit years ago, its atmosphere is redolent of a mid-range hotel dining room 15 years ago. It wouldn't take much to give it either a more traditional or contemporary feel