I'M often wary about places which try to be all things to all people, but as always there is an exception to the rule.

It's said that a thriving village needs a school, shop, church and pub. And if I lived at Hamsterley I would be delighted to call the Cross Keys my local, as it appears to be at the hub of the community since Lynsey and Dean Stephenson took over in February.

The couple, who have four young children, are from just down the road - she West Auckland and he Tindale Crescent - and before they moved to the Cross Keys they had been running a bar and restaurant in Durham City.

"I have wanted this pub for a while, but it has slipped through our fingers four times," said Mrs Stephenson, who was determined not to let it happen again.

My hubby Peter, who has family ties to Hamsterley, and I nip over to the Cross Keys every couple of months or so during the summer, but until our recent visit were unaware of the change of landlords. And we were in for a few surprises.

Mrs Stephenson is a trained cook, but the couple have also engaged Nick Copson, a former chef at the prestigious Headlam Hall Hotel near Gainford, and it is already starting to pay off as the 70-seater restaurant was full on the Saturday night we called into the bar for a meal.

Having initially popped in for just one-course, we felt duty bound to try a starter, so we shared a plate of potato wedges, salad and dips. Although only about half a dozen in number, they were thick and chunky and hit the spot at £3.95. We could have chosen from around half a dozen others, including garlic king prawns or pate, ranging from £3.75-£5.30.

With its enormous bay windows, the elongated bar area is spacious enough to dine without being jostled by drinkers. But non-smokers should be aware that it is a bar as well as an eating area. It is shabbily comfortable, although the couple have not yet had time to address the decor.

"But we do have carpets," said Mrs Stephenson; a reaction to our editor's aversion to laminate and wood flooring.

Ignoring the two dozen dishes on the printed menu in favour of blackboard specials, for our mains we both plumped for "sizzlers." And although we have travelled widely and been faced with some unusual foodstuffs, nowhere have we been treated to such quirky presentation as we received on our own doorstep.

Peter plumped for crispy duck, but being a fish fiend I went for the seafood. Both were described as "hanging kebabs" so we waited and wondered and weren't disappointed. I think the only thing missing was the lack of a musical fanfare, such was the interest they caused when our friendly, chatty young waitress Becky Walton bore them to our table.

For readers who have ever played hangman on paper, imagine drawing the scaffold and it will give you a rough idea of what to expect. Peter's crispy half duck and my prawns and chunks of salmon swung from detachable skewers like bodies on a gibbet and so gobsmacked were we that we spent a fascinated few minutes wondering where to start.

Novelty value aside, Peter's duck was delicious, accompanied as it was by a tangy Hoi Sin dipping sauce, Chinese pancakes, mixed salad and a bowl of fat, home-made chips. My prawns and salmon chunks were huge and succulent and came with a dish of tagliatelle and a separate gravy boat of creamy garlic sauce. I poured some on the pasta and dipped my kebab in the rest. Scrummy-dos, as my granddaughter would say. The only addition we would have appreciated was a finger bowl rather than the inadequate paper napkins, as we had to nip to the loo to wash our greasy fingers.

At £11.99 and £10.95 respectively they weren't the cheapest bar meals we have ever had, but in terms of taste, quality and sheer entertainment value they scored highly. The average, including the dishes on the printed menu, was around £8. Neither of us could manage a pudding, but choices, all at £3.10, included strawberry and Drambuie gateau, sweet and sticky kebabs and chocolate sponge with pink custard.

With coffees, a couple of glasses of house red and a pint of Guinness, our bill came to a tad over £33.

As well as the restaurant and bar food, the Stephensons also operate a takeaway service, there being no other in the village. Main meals can be ordered until 9.30pm, while a recently installed pizza oven churns them out until 11pm.

Food is available all day on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and from noon-3 at other times. Sunday lunches are served from noon, but from 3-6pm the cost reduces to £7.98 for two. As I said, all things to all people. And nothing to be wary of. Next time we shall try the restaurant.