Using the Settle Carlisle Railway for a one-way walk is an excellent way of enjoying the countryside. Add in a climb of Pen-y-Ghent and a walk along the River Ribble and you have a fine day out in one of the most lovely parts of the Dales. Take the train first.
The train from Settle leaves at roughly one-and-a-half hour intervals for Horton in Ribblesdale (check the latest times) and takes ten minutes. From Horton station, head down the main street, turning sharp right over the river and past the car park.
Just before arriving at the church turn left and take the path through the field to a side road. Cross the river at a footbridge and continue left up the lane, past the old school to Brackenbottom Farm. Turn left and pass through a small gate.
The route up Pen-y-Ghent is clear and obvious from here, initially via a steep rolling climb along an eroded, partially repaired path, and then at the gate in the wall turn left and climb steeply up to the summit. The climb is rocky with a mild scramble near the top. From the summit return to the hole in the wall.
From the wall, continue south along the Pennine Way for three quarters of a mile to a farm track. The Pennine Way goes left but you should go right and follow the lane for a further 300 metres to a gate at the boundary wall and take the footpath heading just west of south. The footpath crosses a number of walls but keeps its height for three quarters of a mile with excellent views ahead.
At a junction of walls (marked as a sheep wash on the O/S map) bend more south westerly and start to drop steadily downhill to a lane. Cross the lane (this is the Pennine Journey long distance path) and follow the broad track into the lovely village of Stainforth.
It is quite possible to cross under the railway line and road at the car park in Stainforth to join the riverside route at Stainforth Falls (a good spot) but I prefer the footpath that heads just east of south (cross the river at the Craven Heifer pub and turn right), climbs steadily past spectacular Stainforth Scar and past Low Winskill Farm.
From the farm the walk along the road is through spectacular limestone scenery and nearly flat. Where the road turns sharply right to drop into Langcliffe, continue along the marked footpath, in essence skirting the hillside as you track towards Settle.
The views over the Ribblesdale and the Forest of Bowland more than compensate for any initial climb! At a laithe barn and gate the track drops steeply in to Settle.
The sketch map does not show the alternative low level route from Horton to Settle which sticks close to the River Ribble from Stainforth.
Walk facts
Distance: Roughly 10.5 miles.
Height to climb: 650m (2,130 feet).
Start: SD 808727. From the railway station at Horton walk down the road, past the car park to the 3 Peaks cafe.
Difficulty: Hard/medium. The walk over Pen-y-Ghent to Stainforth is over some rough ground and hard but the riverside, lower level walk is never too difficult.
Refreshments: Settle has some lovely pubs and I particularly like a pint in the Talbot.
Be prepared: The route description and sketch map only provide a guide to the walk. You must take out and be able to read a map (O/S Explorer OL2) and in cloudy/misty conditions a compass. You must also wear the correct clothing and footwear for the outdoors. Whilst every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers head out at their own risk.
Please observe the Countryside Code and park sensibly.
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Jonathan Smith is the owner of Where2walk, a walking company based in the Yorkshire Dales. He has written three books on walking in the Dales; The Yorkshire 3 Peaks, The Dales 30 mountains and Walks without Stiles. All these books (and more) are available direct from the Where2walk website.
He runs navigation courses at different venues in the Yorkshire Dales and Moors and has guiding holidays including the Three Peaks in three days and Dales 30 Weekenders. Where2walk.co.uk features hundreds of walks with descriptions across Yorkshire and beyond, from easy strolls to harder climbs.
Visit the website for details of all these walks, guiding days and navigation courses.
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