North of Hawes lie two of the best mountains in the Yorkshire Dales - Great Shunner Fell and Lovely Seat (both Dales 30) which bridge the divide of the fine col at Buttertubs. The full crossing from the start at Hardraw is nearly 12 miles, some of which is over rough terrain. It is a grand day out.

The walk starts in Hardraw, where there is some roadside parking. To the west of the small river a lane heads north and uphill. The climb up Great Shunner Fell is well signposted as it follows the Pennine Way for nearly five miles.

The first section joins a wide broad ridge and climbs steadily on a rough farm track. After two miles the track arrives at a gate and the scenery changes. There is a feeling of remoteness after the gate which was not noticeable before. The track becomes a more standard footpath, wet in places (although the wettest sections have been improved by the use of some duck boards and stone slabs) before a final pull brings you to a stile over a fence and the large summit shelter.

(Image: Jonathan Smith)

The viewpoint is excellent, particularly over Swaledale to the north and east.

At this point leave the Pennine Way and head south east along a path and then back north east along a line of fence posts. The path climbs to Little Shunner Fell before dropping south east and then south for one mile to the road at Buttertubs Pass. Keep the fence in sight as you descend and you will arrive at the pass.

(Image: Jonathan Smith)

Buttertubs Pass became very well known in 2014 as the most scenic point on the Tour de France route and is still lovely today. The name comes from times past when farmers walking between the two dales in hot weather lowered their butter in to the 60 or so limestone potholes on the side of the road. It is possible to return to Hardraw along the road at this point if desired.

Lovely Seat (the second ‘Dales 30' mountain on the walk) is just south of east from the pass. Pick your way through the peat and mud near the road before joining the fence which climbs unerringly to the summit. The large shelter cairn does bring to mind a chair and, when there is a westerly wind, is very welcome too! Many will return along the fence to the road but I prefer a bit of adventure and headed just west of south on trackless access land.

(Image: Jonathan Smith)

After half a mile the land starts to fall away to the south west. Here follow the rough ground keeping the finely named Sod Hole Gill to your right. After a further 500 metres the land crosses a line of small rock falls and arrives at two moss covered cairns, Pike Hill. Here you will meet a farm track, follow this downhill until it meets the road. Turn left at the road and walk down to the impressive Simonstone Hall Hotel.

From the hotel a footpath cuts the corner to Hardraw, follow it down the initially steep grassy bank before arriving at the Green Dolphin pub.

Walk facts:

Distance: Roughly 11.5 miles.

Height to climb: 650m (2,130 feet).

Start: SD 865913. Park on the roadside near the Green Dolphin pub in Hardraw.

Difficulty: Difficult. There is a good track up Great Shunner but once leaving the Pennine Way it is largely trackless. In cloudy conditions a compass will be needed.

Refreshments: The Green Dragon in Hardraw is a traditional Dales pub and there is a café at the entrance to the waterfall at Hardraw Force.

Be prepared: The route description and sketch map only provide a guide to the walk. You must take out and be able to read a map (O/S Explorer OL30) and in cloudy/misty conditions a compass (essential on this walk). You must also wear the correct clothing and footwear for the outdoors. Whilst every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers head out at their own risk.

Please observe the Countryside Code and park sensibly.

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  • Jonathan Smith is the owner of Where2walk, a walking company based in the Yorkshire Dales. He has written three books on walking in the Dales, The Yorkshire 3 Peaks, The Dales 30 mountains and Walks without Stiles. All these books (and more) are available direct from the Where2walk website. 
  • Book a navigation (map and compass skills) training day near Settle or a bespoke day for a private group. The next available course is on Saturday, August 31. Join our “Dales 30” Weekender in Sedbergh or “Three Peaks in Three Days” guided walks (both in later September).
  • Where2walk.co.uk also features hundreds of walks across Yorkshire and beyond, from easy strolls to harder climbs. Visit the website for details of the walks, guiding days and navigation courses.