The most popular route up Whernside (the highest mountain in Yorkshire) is from Ribblehead with its famous viaduct. From the summit the walk drops steeply down the mountain, returning via the local farms and fields. There is an extended version via the 3 Tarns of Whernside (see below).
From the parking head towards the viaduct, the impressive bulk of Whernside lies behind. The viaduct was built between 1870 and 1874 with more than 1,000 navvies involved and includes 24 stone arches towering impressively to over 100 feet above your head.
Do not pass under the viaduct but keep to the east path alongside the railway, the line on your left. Pass the derelict-looking station house at Blea Moor station before arriving at the aqueduct that marks the start of the climb up Whernside. The tunnel ahead is Blea Moor Tunnel, a one and a half mile tunnel reflecting the skill and tenacity of the Victorian builders.
To climb Whernside, cross the aqueduct and start to climb steadily up the slopes of the mountain. On your left is the waterfall at Force Gill, often impressive, certainly after rains. After 350 feet of steady climbing a stile to the left marks a change in direction and a well-constructed footpath heads towards the summit ridge of Whernside.
(Image: Jonathan Smith)
Much of the walking is on vast slabs, carefully laid. They may be hard on the feet but as well as protecting the sensitive peat land around, protect the walker from wading through a knee high bog.
The alternative route does not cross the stile but continues for a mile and a half to the Boot in the Wold. At a stone wall turn left/uphill and climb the grassy slopes past three tarns to meet the original route near the summit.
A mile from the stile (on the original route) the path arrive at the broad summit ridge of Whernside, follow it for three quarters of a mile to the summit. The trig point is through a narrow gap in the wall and offers great views to the north with the "Dales 30" summits of Gregareth (the highest point in Lancashire) and Great Coum prominent with the Howgills and southern Lakes further afield.
(Image: Jonathan Smith)
As you continue south from the summit it is the distinctive shape of Ingleborough which attracts the eye. Three quarters of a mile from the summit the path divides, your route heads steeply downhill to the left. The lesser path carries along a broad, attractive ridge for four miles towards Ingleton.
The initial, steep descent has been recently repaired by the excellent Three Peaks rangers and team and is much more pleasant than previous years. The slope flattens after the first gate. Pass through two more small gates and arrive at the farm at Bruntscar.
(Image: Jonathan Smith)
Instead of carrying on down the main farm track (the route taken by those on the Yorkshire Three Peaks Challenge) turn left into a field and head north east, contouring the lower slopes of Whernside.
The path passes through the farms of Broadrake and Ivenscar before an obvious track on your right (one mile from Bruntscar) heads towards the viaduct. Turn left at the farm of Gunnerfleet and under the viaduct back to the start.
Walk facts:
Distance: Roughly eight miles.
Height to climb: 460m (1,500 feet).
Start: SD 765793. Park in the many parking places at the junction of the B6255 and B6479 and head towards the viaduct.
Difficulty: Hard.
Refreshments: The Station Inn is a good pub at Ribblehead, a couple of minutes walk from the parking.
Be prepared: The route description and sketch map only provide a guide to the walk. You must take out and be able to read a map (O/S Explorer OL2) and in cloudy/misty conditions a compass. You must also wear the correct clothing and footwear for the outdoors. Whilst every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers head out at their own risk.
Please observe the Countryside Code and park sensibly.
Recommended reading:
- Walk deep into this 8,000 acre forest full of birds, animals and tall trees
- Peace, peat hags and glorious views in this Yorkshire Dales walk route
- Try this popular walk to the highest point in Yorkshire - with spectacular views
- Jonathan Smith is the owner of Where2walk, a walking company based in the Yorkshire Dales. He has written three books on walking in the Dales, The Yorkshire 3 Peaks, The Dales 30 mountains and Walks without Stiles. All these books (and more) are available direct from the Where2walk website.
- Book a navigation (map and compass skills) training day near Settle or a bespoke day for a private group. The next available course is on Saturday, August 31. Join our “Dales 30” Weekender in Sedbergh or “Three Peaks in Three Days guided walks in September. Where2walk.co.uk also features hundreds of walks across Yorkshire and beyond, from easy strolls to harder climbs.
- Visit the website for details of the walks, guiding days and navigation courses.
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