We tried an evening meal at Darlington's Imperial Express

This continental cafe on Darlington's Northumberland Street is easy to overlook, tucked away as it is just off Grange Road.

But it has been there for some years now and appears to be thriving.

The Imperial Express, on Northumberland Street, Darlington, oozes class (Image: ANDREW WHITE)Imperial Express oozes class

So, with a little bit of spare cash in my back pocket, I decided to treat myself and my wife to a night out.

The first thing to say about The Imperial Express is that it looks fabulous. Tastfully understated, it oozes class.

The most recognisable interior feature is the impressive wine rack, which occupies an entire wall. The cafe is also a wine retailer and prides itself on the quality of its bottles. It also sells cigars, evidenced by the splendid humidor in the corner of the room.

The wall of wine in the Imperial Express (Image: ANDREW WHITE)The wall of wine in the Imperial Express

We had booked a table for two at 6.30pm and, after being successfully seated, ordered drinks and perused the extensive menu.

Now, I like to have plenty of choice, but this can sometimes create its own issues. There was plenty I liked the look of on this extensive menu, so had to ask the waitress for a little more time before ordering. Not a problem.

In the end I plumped for a starter of feather blade of beef croquettes in a pepper sauce (£11.25). It proved a good decision.

The pepper sauce on the beef croquettes really packed a punch (Image: ANDREW WHITE)The pepper sauce on the beef croquettes really packed a punch

The croquettes were light and fluffy, containing a generous amount of shredded meat. But the real star of this show was the sauce. It packed a proper peppery punch which tingled on the tongue long after the bowl had been emptied.

Frances opted for the twice baked blue cheese and bacon souffle, served with roasted walnuts and dipping bread (£12.95). She was particularly impressed that the blue cheese flavour shone through in what was an appetising opener.

Twice baked blue cheese and bacon souffle (Image: ANDREW WHITE)Twice baked blue cheese and bacon souffle

After a short breather, it was on the main event.

I'm a huge fish fan, so selected the pan fried sea bass from the main course menu. It was served with nduja, garlic, creme fraiche, sautee potatoes, samphire and kale (£18.95).

The sea bass was simply and perfectly cooked, but robust enough to cope with the other powerful flavours on the dish. The nduja had a particulary strong flavour and could have overpwered the dish, were it not perfecly balanced by the accompanying creme fraiche.

The sea bass dish was perfectly balanced (Image: ANDREW WHITE)The sea bass dish was perfectly balanced

This was an accomplished dish and was polished off by myself with real gusto.

Frances selected something a bit different for her - the Lebanese lamb kofta, with flat bread, hummus, mint yoghurt, Greek salad and salted fries (£15.95).

The log-shaped kofta looked like it might be quite heavy, but it was quite the opposite. Spicy and delicious, declared Frances, with a beautifully fresh accompaniment.

Lebanese lamb kofta (Image: ANDREW WHITE)Lebanese lamb kofta

The next question was, would we have room for a dessert? We asked to look at the dessert menu - and it didn't take long to decide the answer to that question would be 'yes'.

The choice for me was simple - warm apple pie, with hot Baileys custard.

Delicious apple pie and custard was a great way to round off the meal (Image: ANDREW WHITE)Delicious apple pie and custard was a great way to round off the meal

I can never resist an apple pie, as long as there's plenty of filling - not always the case. I needn't have worried - this was a great big doorstep of a pie, chock full of juicy apples and with a lovely crisp pastry. The Bailys flavour was easily detectable in the lush, thick custard, but not so much to overpower the dish.

For Frances, the brandy snap basket with an Eton mess filling called to her. And she too wasn't disappointed. "Flavoursome," was her considered verdict.

The brandy snap basket with an Eton mess filling (Image: ANDREW WHITE)The brandy snap basket with an Eton mess filling

All desserts on the menu were priced at £7.50. Washed down by a couple of pints of Lindeboom pilsner for me and a couple of glasses of sparking water for Frances, the total bill came to a little over £90 - very reasonable indeed.

Overall, this was a superior dining experience. The staff were polite, attentive and friendly, the surroundings and ambience were more than pleasant and, most importantly, the food was superb.

Read more Eating Out reviews here:

• A warm welcome and tasty sandwiches at this Yorkshire pub
• What we thought of dinner - and the chips - at Country Durham country pub
• Why we fell in love with this North Yorkshire seaside tea garden

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I'd always enjoyed lunch when I'd visited The Imperial Express previously and have no idea why I waited so long to sample the evening menu.

One thing is for certain, I'll be back - and I won't leave it so long next time.

The Imperial Express cafe 

2 Northumberland Street, Darlington, DL3 7HJ

01325 383297

Info@imperialexpresscafe.co.uk

https://www.facebook.com/imperialexpresscafe

Serving food 12pm-2.30pm (lunch menu) and 5.30pm-8.30pm (evening menu)

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 9 Service 8 Surroundings 8 Value 8