Review: Buon Appetito Italian restaurant in Wolsingham, County Durham

The last time I relied on Scott's guidance was back in 2014 when he wrote a column headlined "Six reasons why Liverpool stand on the brink of winning the title" which reassured me my team's long wait to be Premier League champions was soon to be over. Well, their slide to second place began almost as soon as the ink was dry on his article, and nearly nine years on, I still haven't got over the false hope he gave me.

Until now. Our meal at Buon Appetito was absolutely top notch and I'm happy to report my faith in the Wilson's World column is fully restored.

We'd booked in on a Thursday night in the school Easter holidays, having opted for a change of scenery from springtime North Yorkshire to springtime County Durham, staying for a night in Frosterley and enjoying some local walks.

The restaurant, which on its website promises the finest Italian food in Wolsingham made from authentic recipes, was packed with groups of families, friends and couples, and we were shown to our table, nicely tucked in the corner. Our drinks order was swiftly taken and arrived promptly while we looked over the extensive menu.

For a starter, I was sorely tempted by the bruschetta (£5.95) but because that's my usual choice in an Italian restaurant, I decided to change things up and opted for Polpette di Salmone (£8.95) – salmon fishcakes with a sweet chilli dipping sauce.

Polpette di Salmone - salmon fishcakes with sweet chilli dipping sauce

They were pleasantly chunky without being too large so as to ruin any chances of having enough space for a main course, and packed with flavoursome fish. The crispy coating was perfectly cooked and the chilli sauce had a nice heat to it without being overpowering.

Claire chose Bucce di Patate (£5.95) – potato skins with garlic mayo, and while the presentation was fairly rustic, they were absolutely delicious – so much so that I had to get involved to double-check her verdict.

Bucce di pattate - potato skins with garlic mayonnaise

For our mains, I probably could have chosen and enjoyed about ten different things, but in the end I went for Cannelloni Con Carne (£12.95) – steak mince, herbs and spinach in a homemade pancake topped with tomato and Béchamel. It arrived face-meltingly hot and was a really good-sized portion coated in a fabulous amount of cheesy-tomatoey goodness. I dived in once it had cooled and found it tasted every bit as good as it looked, with fresh herbs perfectly flavouring the meaty insides. It was a dish to warm the cockles as the skies cleared outside and the chilly dales night set in.

Homemade Cannelloni Con Carne - enormous and piping hot

Claire is a big fan of a risotto and went for the Pollo (£11.95), with chicken, mushrooms, and onions, and said it was good as any she has had anywhere – beautifully creamy without sitting heavily.

The pollo (chicken and mushroom) risotto

With drinks, the final bill came to £55.15, which seemed more than reasonable given the quality on offer. Service throughout was prompt and professional, with all staff managing the buzzing restaurant floor very well. If we had a scoring category for choice of background music, Buon Appetito would get full marks – my finely-tune Tina Turner radar detected the strains of Nutbush City Limits over the cheery hubbub, an all-time classic and a cut above the drab background music restaurants often subject their diners to.

We couldn't fit in a dessert, but neighbouring tables looked to be devouring theirs with gusto. Instead we paid our bill and headed off, having been looked after very well by Buon Appetito, and reflecting on how maybe we can trust Scott Wilson's judgement after all.

Buon Appetito

8 West End, Wolsingham, Bishop Auckland, DL13 3AP.

Open Tuesday to Friday from 4pm, last order, 9pm. Saturdays from 12pm, last order, 9pm. Sundays from 12pm, last order, 7pm. Closed Mondays.

01388 529 124

www.buon-appetito.co.uk

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 8 Surroundings 8 Service 9 Value for money 8