REVIEW: Cosy and characterful Shoulder of Mutton at Middleton Tyas

One thing I’ve discovered is that our part of the world does have a high proportion of hostelries best categorised as cosy and characterful.

None more so than the Shoulder of Mutton at Middleton Tyas, near Scotch Corner. Everytime I’ve visited over the last 25 years I’ve discovered a little corner I didn’t know existed. There are so many nook and crannies, there are different levels, the place feels Tardis-like in way it sprawls beyond what appears to be its modest frontage.

This character is not just a result of the structure. It really hasn’t been touched in years which in some instances can lead to a place looking a bit dog-eared. That’s not the case at the Shoulder of Mutton: in any case we suspect that any attempt to give the place a contemporary makeover would not go down with the locals or those who travel some distance to enjoy the atmosphere.

Eating Out at The Shoulder of Mutton, Middleton Tyas

Like our party on a recent Sunday. We were mobbed-handed – seven of us – and from all points of the compass. One of the attractions of this pub is its proximity to the north-south, east-west hub that is Scotch Corner.

We had a nook – or was it a cranny? – all to ourselves tucked away to the pub’s rear but within a few strides of the central bar.

But it struck me that this place must be a nightmare to serve. There isn’t a single vantage point anywhere from which staff can keep an eye on all the tables.

Despite that we were looked after very well with the energetic and business-like waiting-on team keeping us fed and watered throughout without being pests.

There is a very experienced team running the show. James Williamson has been landlord since 2017 after a spell learning from the best (Rob Gilpin) at the Wellington Heifer at Ainderby Steeple.

Eating Out at The Shoulder of Mutton, Middleton Tyas

And in the kitchen Simon Edwards is head chef. That’s one half of the famous (in these parts at any rate) Edwards brothers who revolutionised pub food in this area during the 1990s and have graced many of the best kitchens. Brother Johnny is still skilfully wielding a hot skillet not far away at the Arden Arms, Atley Hill.

Perhaps not surprisingly given the team behind it, as Sunday pub lunch menus go this was relatively adventurous. While the traditional favourites were all present there was also a wild mushroom and green lentil chowder starter which found favour in our party, and some extremely more-ish ham and pea arancini – nicely crisp on the outside and velvetly soft inside – with a powerful garlic dip. Some grilled goats cheese with roasted pine nuts and a honey dressing was also well received.

And among the main choices were bream fillet with tomato, olive and basil sauce, linguine with courgettes, lemon, garlic, parsley and feta, and a chicken and bacon gratin.

Despite these choices everyone in our party seemed to choose roasted loin of pork, or the sirloin of beef from the trio of traditional roasts that also included leg of lamb.

Eating Out at The Shoulder of Mutton, Middleton Tyas

While the servings of meat were not considered particularly generous, the pork and the beef (ever so slightly pink) were both tender and well-flavoured served with all the usual accompaniments (a Yorkshire pudding with the beef, and crunchy crackling, apple sauce and sage and onion stuffing with the pork).

The roast potatoes were good and there was a considerable array of vegetables, including some lovely cauliflower cheese (firm florets, a smooth, very cheese-y sauce) but strangely no carrots.

The dessert menu was along traditional lines (a cheesecake, a brownie, a very good apple crumble with vanilla anglaise – custard to you and me) with the stand-out choice being a firm but wobbly orange panna cotta.

We thought it good value with all main courses costing £13.95, two courses £18.95 and three courses £23.95. Drinks were perhaps more a little more expensive with cask ales all being around £4.50 pint and a bottle of Prosecco £24.95.

The Shoulder of Mutton

Middleton Tyas, Richmond DL10 6QX

Tel: 01325 377271 Web: www.shoulderofmuttonmiddletontyas.com

Food serving times: Wednesday to Saturday noon-2pm and 5.30pm-9pm (9.30pm on Friday and Saturday). Sunday: noon-8pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 8 Service 9 Surroundings 9 Value 8