REVIEW: A meal at Masala Art in Darlington's newest Indian restaurant

In fact, I've often wondered how it can sustain so many. But I think the answer is simple - they're really very good.

Whenever I'm asked to recommend a top-notch Indian restaurant in Darlington, I can reel off half a dozen without really thinking.

And if I put my mind to it, I could probably come up with half a dozen more.

So when my wife and I noticed another new one had opened, we decided we ought to give it a go.

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Masala Art, which describes itself as "the epitome of authentic Indian cuisine", opened in Houndgate, in Darlington's town centre, about four months ago.

So when we noticed it was taking part in Darlington Restaurant Week, we decided it was time to check it out.

We booked a table-for-two at 7.30pm on a Thursday evening and arrived just on time.

The reception and bar area inside Masala Art (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

Shown immediately to our seats, we were swiftly asked if we'd like a drink.

Masala offers a good selection of wines and spirits, but I settled for my Indian restaurant standby - a cold pint of Cobra. Frances, the designated driver, opted for lemonade.

The poppadoms arrived soon after, with the usual selection of chutneys and dips - the onion dish was particularly good, clearly freshly prepared.

Poppadoms with a selection of chutneys (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

Our order was taken and the starters didn't take long to arrive.

Like many people, I have a standard two or three dishes from which I usually select - but for some reason, this day I decided to be a little more adventurous (for me).

I ordered the gol gappe - described as an Indian street food delicacy of crispy mini puris stuffed with mashed potato topped with sev (small pieces of crunchy noodles) and chutneys.

Gol gappe (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

Beautifully presented, there were five of these 'mini puris' and it looked a little big for a starter.

But I needn't have worried. The dish was light as a feather, with a subtle spice kick - just enough for me - and completely delicious.

Frances ordered the samosa chaat - chickpeas mixed with samosas, topped with onions and dressed with chutneys.

Samosa chaat (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

Again, it did not disappoint. Lighter than it looked and with a pleasant heat, she declared it "beautiful".

On to the main courses and again I went a little 'rogue' for me by selecting the chicken methi palak - a spinach and fenugreek dish - accompanied by pilau rice.

I've had fenugreek in an Indian dish before, but rarely spot it on menus, so was delighted to see it.

Chicken methi palak (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

Tender and moist chicken with a sweet, nutty flavour, this was a fabulous dish.

I like a bit of heat in my curry, but not too much these days, and this was just right for me.

Frances is a little braver than I am, so she ordered the prawn vindaloo with steamed rice.

It was hot, as vindaloo should be, but no so hot that she couldn't discern the flavour of the food. Despite the odd breather, she finished the lot comfortably and was extremely satisfied.

Prawn vindaloo (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

We didn't have any breads with our meals so we still had a little room and, unusually for us, accepted an offer to have a look at the dessert menu.

Frances went for the traditional Indian ice cream, kulfi. It came in two flavours - mango and pistachio. She selected the mango and described the dish as "creamy, light and lovely".

Mango kulfu (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

I had the coconut supreme ice cream - served in a real half coconut, which gave me an almost childlike delight.

Frances though it a little too sweet, but it was perfect for me and it didn't last long.

Coconut supreme (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

Everything was beautifully presented in lovely surroundings, with some subtle Indian music playing in the background.

The staff were attentive, patient, polite and friendly - without being overbearing or in your face.

The Darlington Restaurant Week is an excellent initiative and several of the town's restaurants were involved, offering diners three-courses for £20 or less.

As it happens, we ignored the restaurant week menu and chose from the main menu anyway - as a result, our bill came to a still reasonable £62.50 for the two of us, including drinks.

I guess the idea of restaurant week is to get people out and about in town to support local businesses.

It worked for us as I doubt we'd have been out on a wet Thursday evening otherwise - which might help explain why the restaurant wasn't especially busy.

In short, we were mightily impressed - and I'm pleased to report there is another name to add to the growing list of the town's recommended Indian restaurants.

RATINGS (out of ten): Food quality 10; Surroundings 8; Value 8; Service 9.

Masala Art on Houndgate, Darlington (Image: ANDREW WHITE)

* Masala Art is at 4A Houndgate, Darlington DL1 5RL. It is open for dining in or takeaway from 4pm to 10pm on Tuesday to Thursday, plus Sunday and bank holidays, and 4pm to 10.30pm on Friday and Saturday. Contact 01325-460605 or book via the website at masala-art.co.uk.

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