AUDI'S Allroad takes an A6 Avant and gives it trick suspension, one that will rise and fall at the press of a button. It is designed for modest off-roading, being grass or tracks, but nothing too demanding.

At the point-to-point it looks the part, with bolder grille and chunkier aesthetics. It will happily rumble across fields with its suspension risen to the max, the long travel units smoothing away the bumps so as not to upset the champers and smoked salmon in the boot.

But there's no compromise to be had once you are back on terra firmer. Twizz the alloy mouse round to dynamic' and the air suspension is lowered giving Allroad the asphalt manners of a sports car.

I can't stress enough just how well this big car handles. Driver seems always to be on top of the road with magnificent visibility and supreme feedback coming through the Quattro drivetrain and razor-sharp steering.

The 2.7 litre six-cylinder turbo diesel is smooth and strong offering stunning performance (0-60mph in nine seconds, top speed 133mph) but also great economy (40.3mpg extra urban) and the automatic gearbox couldn't be more responsive or smootherchanging if it tried, which it doesn't have to.

Inside is gloriously A6 with familiar ergonomics and huge levels of comfort and quality.

Space abounds; it is simply huge and the estate car load bay will swallow crates of said champagne and shoals of salmon if required.

Allroad is pretty much the perfect allrounder offering the dynamics of an off-roader, the abilities of a sports car and the practicality of an estate car.

No wonder it is a joy to drive.