Blaze of glory

DEEP blue skies and perfect, white meringue peaks greeted our descent into Tromso and as I exited the plane after a two-hour journey from Gatwick, I could have been mistaken for the Michelin man with my multilayers of thermals, fleeces and overcoat.

Four days in temperatures that could drop well below zero degrees centigrade awaited me and I didn’t want to spend that time curled up in a ball and with chattering teeth.

Escorted by guides Hanne and Knut, we made the short trip from the airport to Tromso town. There was no panic over impassable routes or shortages of grit and our bus travelled down steep gradients of snow-laden roads trouble free.

First stop lunch. Tromso’s harbourside Viewpoint Cafe awaited with panoramic views encompassing the kilometre-long bridge linking the Norwegian mainland to Tromso island and the triangular landmark Arctic Cathedral.

The cuisine fitted well with the surroundings, a beautifully prepared and presented piece of halibut accompanied by steamed asparagus and a vegetable mash.

Appetites satisfied, we checked in to the Rica Ishavshotell (Rica Arctic Ocean Hotel), a short walk from the restaurant. Tonight was to be the first opportunity of seeing the northern lights, referred to as “She” by guide Knut in reference to feminine qualities of beauty and mystery.

In scientific terms, the lights are a result of the ionisation of atmospheric molecules at low temperatures by solar and cosmic radiation, which is why they are most visible in the Arctic or Antarctic circles.

We departed for Tromso Friluftssenter, where insulated boots and suits were supplied.

A sleigh pulled by reindeer awaited to transport us around a frozen lake under the moonlight, a tranquil ride, moving slowly over thick ice, gazing up at the skies in search of aurora borealis. Sadly, that evening only a faint glimpse was to be seen.

As I started to lose all feeling in my toes, we were escorted into a traditional lavvu – a structure similar to a North American tepee with sloping sides rising to a central pinnacle. A welcoming fire burned bright and circulated its warmth as bowls of soup containing reindeer meat, known locally as bidos, were served.

Perhaps this explained why earlier my sledpuller had been in no hurry to complete its journey. After a third helping, my limbs had thawed fully.

The next day, I donned my multitude of clothing again to prepare for a full day in the Arctic. Again, weather conditions were perfect: crystal clear waters topped by a low-lying mist ripened into a dramatic view of the Lyngen Alps.

A bus and ferry ride led, in stark contrast, to a much faster and noisier experience of a mechanical nature. Kitted out in the appropriate gear and provided with safety instruction, snowmobiles awaited. Following the excursion leader, we set out from a small, picturesque village of wooden houses across country surrounded by angular mountains. Thumb pressed down on the accelerator. We moved quickly across the snowy landscape: a heated handlebar and a cup of hot chocolate were the icing on the cake.

Bodies and souls satisfied, we returned to our starting point and boarded the bus to the village of Lyngseidet for lunch, a tender fillet of goat with root vegetable mash followed by a generous slice of cream cake.

After lunch we left for Skjervoy, to join the southbound Hurtigruten cruise ship for the return to Tromso and we repaired to the ship’s lounge. As we relaxed, we were informed that an alarm would be sounded if “she” decided to reveal herself that evening. Sadly, we were stood-up yet again, though a fine, three-course meal ensured the evening was a pleasant one.

A morning walking around Tromso was on the agenda for our third day in the Arctic Circle, where traditional angular wooden houses mixed with more contemporary structures and a bustling main street had stalls selling cod tongues and cheeks.

The town was the starting point for many expeditions as documented in the Polar Museum, which is filled with memorabilia and information from these arduous journeys and a display on the history of hunting in the region with some rather graphic pictures.

Lunch was taken at Emma’s Under, a beautiful piece of salmon followed by a cloudberry mousse, a highly-prized seasonal fruit picked from a herb belonging to the rose family.

After an afternoon wandering the town, we departed for Lyngsfjord, around 70 minutes from Tromso towards the borders with Sweden and Finland. Husky dogs – and a final opportunity to see the Northern Lights – awaited. Worryingly, I was given the responsibility of handling a couple of dogs which were due to take part in a dog sledding competition, but they knew the circular route well and I only needed to control a foot brake at the rear of the sleigh.

A head torch and the bright glow of the moon adequately lit the evening as we flew across the snow: it was staggering how much speed five dogs could generate. Gaining in confidence, my desire to see just how fast we could go got the better of me. A sharp dipping bend resulted in the dogs and sleigh continuing along the correct route in one direction and myself and passenger travelling through the air and head first into the snow in another. Fortunately there were no injuries: a ten-minute walk back to our finishing point and there were the dogs, all present and correct.

Warming ourselves with cod soup by the fire in a lavvu, our final treat was about to be revealed in all its glory. As I finished my last spoonful, we were alerted of a sighting and rushed outside to witness a haze of green light slowly slithering across a starry sky. This was followed by several more over a beautiful backdrop of snow-covered scenery. It was stunning.

An event to behold and perfectly timed on our final evening.

❄ The Hurtigruten coastal voyage is one of the most popular trips in Norway. (hurtigruten.co.uk; 0844- 448-7601).

The Northern Lights season runs from November through to March each year and trips range from three to 12 nights.

This year a four-night Arctic Highlights voyage from Tromso to Kirkenes and back cost from £850pp including return flights from London Heathrow. A four day Ice Hotel Adventure from Tromso to Honningsvag and onto Alta cost from £1,165pp.