The Schooner Hotel in Alnmouth Northumberland, is one of the most haunted places in Britain - even featuring on television's Most Haunted. Lindsay Jennings spent a sleepless night there.

WE'RE driving up the coast road towards Alnmouth - once described as "a small seaport town famous for its wickedness" by John Wesley, the founder of the Methodist Church.

Some of that residual wickedness is apparently still flitting about through the walls of the Schooner Hotel, in the form of around 60 ghosts. Apparently there have been more than 3,000 sightings of apparitions in eight years, earning it the lofty title of Haunted Hotel of the Year in 1998 by the British Poltergeist Society.

The former coaching inn has even been featured on Living TV's Most Haunted, presenter Yvette Fielding doing her usual impression of being terrified, all pale and bug-eyed. I know how she feels. I'm afraid of the dark. I would still sleep with a night light if they didn't all have Winnie the Pooh on, so I'm understandably nervous.

A call to the sister-in-law doesn't help. "Oh, I remember that one," she says, recalling the Most Haunted episode and cackling maniacally in the process.

"Is it really terrifying?" I whimper.

"If you're Yvette Fielding," she says.

"I am Yvette Fielding."

"From what I can remember, there was a lot of poltergeist activity, books moving, that kind of thing, but don't worry, if you don't believe in them they won't show themselves".

We pull up outside the Schooner, which is right in the centre of Alnmouth, on the Northumberland coast.

Alnmouth was established in the 12th century and became a prosperous seaport, exporting corn across Europe. Smuggling was part of everyday life, which prompted John Wesley's condemnation and was no doubt the reason behind so much violence in times gone by at The Schooner.

In 1806, a storm blew up and the river broke its banks, creating a new course which made it difficult for ships to anchor. The port was no longer, but Alnmouth gained a new lease of life in the 19th century as a tourist destination. And it is a lovely spot.

The Schooner, which over the years has seen such distinguished guests as Charles Dickens, Basil Rathbone, Douglas Bader and even King George III, is a couple of hundreds metres away from the beach, perfect for taking the kids to or for long, romantic walks.

We check into The Schooner and I breathe a sigh of relief as I'm told our room isn't supposed to be haunted - unlike room 28, the old servant's quarters and allegedly the site of a family massacre in which a father murdered his wife and two children. Visitors have also reported seeing a young girl and boy in the room. A little girl has been heard mumbling from inside the wardrobe in room 16, while room 17 is said to be home to a mischievous poltergeist.

I don't believe in ghosts, I don't believe in ghosts, I utter repeatedly as we climb the stairs.

Inside our room, the only scary thing we find is the grubby carpet, which, to put it mildly, has seen better days, as have the tired-looking walls and dingy bathroom.

We learn the neglected hotel, which has recently been bought by businessman Martin Rohman, who has ten restaurants and hotels in the region, is undergoing a £200,000 refurbishment. And if the Indian restaurant downstairs he has created is anything to go by, the 32 rooms will be transformed. He is bringing over traditional furniture from India with 20 rooms being completed by the end of July and the whole hotel by the end of the year. The Schooner certainly deserves a bit of TLC.

But the Indian restaurant downstairs is chic with plum and cream coloured walls. A chandelier graces the ceiling and brown leather chairs and laminated flooring add to the contemporary look. The food is excellent. The prawn on puri is delicious, the fish cakes light and fresh. The Jal Jul main course, a South Indian chicken dish, is a skip away from the usual curry offerings and proves to be fairly hot, but wonderfully spicy. Somewhat at odds, the Inn still serves pub grub in another restaurant at the back, which is also due for a facelift.

That night as we drift off to sleep, myself with one eye open, we hear something go bang in the night. I wake up instantly, adrenaline pumping. But it's not the sight of some 17th century bluebeard type, dragging his peg leg across the floor, it's someone who's decided to let off a couple of fireworks in the street, a wicked soul perhaps, but one from the 21st century nonetheless.

The Schooner Hotel can be contacted on (01665) 830216. Double rooms including breakfast from £59.