Hidden Gems of Sri Lanka

TELL anyone you've visited Sri Lanka and they only have one question - what is it like after the tsunami? It's around the same size as southern Ireland, but there's more to see and do in just a fraction of the island than in the whole of many other countries.

But after the devastating events of Boxing Day 2004, the only scenes people remember are of the shattered villages after the wave hit.

Today, almost 18 months on, if you take the coast road from the capital Colombo to Galle in the south, the temporary housing is almost completely gone, the debris is cleared and the only signs which remain are the tide marks high up on the buildings and the occasional brick wall, the eerie remains of a home which was washed away.

But while work is continuing, particularly in the east, there's no reason for tourists not to return - and there's plenty to tempt.

The Arab traders who visited Sri Lanka called it the island of jewels, Serendib, giving us the word serendipity, the art of making happy discoveries by chance. Legend tells that Adam had his last sight of Paradise from its hills, and even today its name means auspicious or resplendent.

As soon as you arrive, you begin to understand why. The real jewels of the island aren't the gems which are mined in Ratnapura, but the unfailingly friendly people, impressive temples and stunning scenery.

Who can forget feeding peanuts to an elephant, while stroking its trunk? That was the highlight of a trip to the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage, which houses 60 or 70 animals - babies as well as much older, often injured elephants.

First you get to see the feeding - the mahouts, or elephant drivers, wander around with enormous bottles of milk, while the elephants playfully tussle trunks. Afterwards, they head down to the water to enjoy a good scrub.

Elephants are everywhere in Sri Lanka - once a royal animal, you can now see domesticated ones, sometimes decorated for a procession, as well as wild ones wandering through the jungle.

We were lucky enough to encounter two on our way to Sigiriya, another highlight. Dating from the fifth century, the legend says the rightful king's brother usurped the throne, and built an impregnable fortress on the huge, solitary rock, which rises 200m from the surrounding countryside.

With a palace and even a reservoir on top, the frescoes of the 'Sigiriya damsels' which adorn the painted rock are breathtaking. Such a feat of engineering would be impressive today - 1,500 years ago it's astounding.

The walk up is best done before it's too hot - it's no easy stroll, but every step is worthwhile. As you step through the lion's paws near the top, the remains of a huge statue giving the rock its name, lion's throat, the views are stunning.

Sigiriya is just one of the ancient cities which should be on every itinerary, along with nearby Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa.

The best way to get around is with a local driver - it's said that the Sinhalese drive in the shade rather than on the left or right - and as well as the other traffic, you need to dodge dogs, cows, goats, plus the occasional elephant. Then you need to learn the numerous meanings for a single horn beep - such as 'I'm coming past', 'you're welcome', and 'don't even think about it'. . !

Anuradhapura, dating back to around 400BC, is a complex of palaces and dagobas, huge hemispherical structures, which often reach well over 50m today - originally they would have been even higher.

The intricately-carved moonstones for which the city is famous can still be seen among the ruins, as well as a Buddha statue from the 4th century.

What draws throngs of visitors, however, is the oldest recorded tree in the world. Venerated as a sapling from the sacred bodhi tree under which the Buddha found nirvana, or enlightenment, it was brought from India, and has been tended by a succession of guardians for over 2,000 years.

The ca the 10th century and remained there for 300 years. With a helpful museum, giving you an insight into how the town might once have been, the remains of the 1,000-year-old buildings are also more intact.

Here, Buddhism and Hinduism co-existed happily - you can still see a Buddha flanked by dancing Hindu statues.

While the palaces, temples and other ruins, including the unusual Cambodian-influenced stepped pyramid, are all worth a visit, no trip would be complete without seeing the Gal Vihara, four separate images of the Buddha, in three different positions, all carved from one piece of granite. The reclining statue is 14m long, and the detail is breathtaking.

Buddhism itself is alive and well, and many of the ancient sites are still living places to pray and worship.

The cave temples at Dambulla are a good example. Some 150m up from the road, there are around 30 caves, although only five are open to visitors.

Brilliantly painted, and packed with statues of the Buddha, you'll see plenty of Sinhalese offering prayers.

But Sri Lanka is more than ancient cities - the second city Kandy, a bustling metropolis after the tranquil countryside around our first hotel in Habarana, was the capital of the last Sinhalese kingdom.

Today the capital of the hill country is renowned for its gardens, and the Temple of the Tooth, reputedly housing the Buddha's tooth. It's also home to famed local dancers - the performances are aimed squarely at tourists, although the dancers are part of an ancient tradition.

Travel further into the hills themselves, and you see yet another side of Sri Lanka. The hills are covered by glossy green tea bushes, first planted by the British, now worked by Tamil women from southern India.

It's meticulous but monotonous work, as the women, a splash of colour against the bright green, pick the top three leaves of each bush to fill their sacks.

The tea then undergoes various complicated processes, being dried, rolled, chopped and sieved, before grading.

We visited the Pedro Tea Estate, just outside the summer resort of Nuwara Eliya, where, at 1,900m above sea level, the British would go to escape the punishing heat.

The town itself is an enjoyable mass of contradictions. Seemingly frozen in time, the thoroughly colonial style St Andrew's hotel - overlooking the 18-hole golf course - offers afternoon tea.

Bartering for sari material on the single main street was followed by dinner at The Hill Club, the very archetype of a Victorian gentleman's club.

Yet all this only scratches the surface - there's also beaches, the hubbub of Colombo, and the chance to spot leopards in the national parks.

It's no wonder Sri Lanka has been a fabled island of treasures for so long - perhaps the only surprise is that more people haven't yet experienced them for themselves.

TRAVEL FACTS Cathy Winston travelled with Kuoni Travel (01306 747 008 or www. kuoni. co. uk) who can tailor make holidays to Sri Lanka.

A similar trip, staying three nights at Habarana Lodge on a half board basis, two nights at the Citadel Kandy on a half board basis, one night in Nuwara Eliya on a half board basis and one night at the Taj Samudra in Colombo on a room and breakfast basis, costs from £821.70 per person.

This includes a private driver/guide throughout the stay, flights with Sri Lankan Airlines from London Heathrow into Colombo and is based on two people sharing.