Island of dreams

THE British are coming!

Today, that cry is more likely to be heard about tourists heading for Menorca’s marvellous beaches and wonderful coastline.

But 300 years ago it would have meant something quite different, with invading forces from Britain setting their sights on the island to win control of what was regarded as a strategic outpost in the Mediterranean.

The island was regularly fought over between British, French and Spanish forces.

Much of Menorca’s past and its strong British links aren’t known to the average tourist, and our four-day trip gave us a flavour of its history, as well as seeing what else the island has to offer.

We stayed in the Son Granot hotel in Es Castell, which was built by Scottish engineer and British Army colonel Patrick Mackellar, in the 18th Century.

Enjoying an elevated position, the Son Granot is an imposing sight, surrounded by beautiful gardens.

The town of Es Castell, the most easterly on the island, was once known as Georgetown, named by the British in honour of King George III.

A celebration – to become an annual event – took place last May of these British links, with marching pipe bands and a re-creation of some of the battles that took place at the time of the British occupation.

Our first port of call was the capital Mahon, where we had a typical Menorcan meal of lamb and baked vegetables, before getting our first view of the city’s giant harbour – the second deepest natural harbour in the world.

Next was a visit to Naveta des Tudons, a pre-historic burial chamber on the Mahon to Ciutadella road, which is the largest and best preserved on the island and is thought to have been used between 1200 and 750BC.

Equally impressive are the Pedreres de S’Hostal stone quarries, near Ciutadella. These cavernous quarries ceased to be working mines in 1994 and were taken over by Lithica, a non-profit-making cultural association.

Huge sculptures have been carved out of the stone, and there are botanic gardens, where visitors can enjoy their cooling shade.

Ciutadella, on the western coast of the island, was once Menorca’s capital until the British moved it in 1723 to Mahon, favouring its location and bigger harbour, which could be used to shelter its fleet of ships.

It’s a picturesque port and you get a greater sense of history here than in Mahon, particularly in its old quarter, which contains a beautiful cathedral, built over an ancient mosque.

The next day we head to El Castillo de San Felipe – Saint Philip’s Castle – in Es Castell. It was built as a fortress to defend the port of Mahon and was occupied by the British in 1713. Ownership passed a number of times between the British, French and the Spanish, before it was eventually handed over by the British to Spain in 1802, under the Treaty of Amiens.

You can explore the many rooms and tunnels within the fort, passing through living quarters where soldiers would have slept. Not all of the fortress is lit and it’s an eerie experience to navigate the pitch-black chambers by torchlight, but exciting to imagine how terrifying it must have been to be trapped deep underground when explosions were going off all around.

Nearby is Fort Marlborough, another British fortress built between 1710 and 1726, situated at the mouth of Mahon harbour, and named after Sir John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough.

It was laid siege to twice, by the French and Spanish, and also handed over to the Spanish under the Treaty of Amien.

HERE a narrator guides you around the underground galleries, while videos and sound effects add to the experience.

Menorcans are proud of their history and on Isla del Rey (King’s Island) off the coast of Mahon, a restoration project involving local volunteers has been under way for the past six years.

The island was once home to a military hospital used to quarantine the sick, built by the British in the early 18th Century, and is now being restored. We squeezed into the smallest boat imaginable to make the short journey over to the island to be given a guided tour of the fully-restored chapel, pharmacy and library.

One of the jewels in Menorca’s crown is Fornells, a beautiful old fishing village on the north coast.

Like many similar villages in Menorca, the brilliant contrast of whitewashed buildings with the clear blue Mediterranean sky is breathtaking.

We ate at Es Pla, next to the harbour, a restaurant where the King of Spain often lunches while his yacht is berthed nearby.

Menorca isn’t particularly known for its nightlife, but one place worth a visit is Cova d’en Xoroi on the south eastern edge of the island. It’s a nightclub and bar set into rocks which jut out high above the sea.

There are a hundred or so steps to walk down to reach it, but it’s worthwhile just to see the amazing views.

Packing in all that history had been tiring work, and it was the perfect place to reflect on our trip, enjoying a drink and watching the sun go down.

Travel facts

Stuart Arnold stayed at the Son Granot hotel – songranot.com For more information about Menorca go to visitmenorca.com or illesbalears.es Jet2.com will operate a direct service from Newcastle Airport to Mahon once a week from May, and three times a week from Leeds-Bradford airport.

Flights start from £29.99 one way, including taxes. To book flights only to Menorca visit jet2.com For holiday packages to Menorca visit jet2holidays.com or call 0800-408-5599.