Chain reaction

FOR a nation that is famous for beer and chocolates, it seems strange that Belgians are generally slimmer and more healthy-looking than we Brits.

One answer may lie in the fact that Belgium is so cycle-friendly.

A lot has been done in recent years to build bike routes in Britain, but it is still hard to ride any great distance without someone trying to kill you.

As a slightly paunchy middle-aged man, cycling is the only exercise I really enjoy. In recent years, I have ridden various routes around Britain, Holland, Germany and France, but by far the nicest route I have ever ridden is the Flanders Cycle Route.

The route winds its way more than 800 miles around Belgium, but is designed so you can do as little or as much as you want.

My wife and our 12-year-old son came along and we aimed to ride 140 miles in four days.

An average of 35 miles a day may sound like a tough task for a lessexperienced cyclist, but the safe, traffic- free and flat routes along canal paths and gentle country lanes makes it incredibly easy and pleasurable.

We’d started our September holiday by catching the P & O ferry from Hull to Zeebrugge.

Sailing is so much more civilised than the hassle of hanging around airports – and you can take bikes for free.

Shortly after boarding, we were tucking into a fantastic buffet, before relaxing in the bar and then retiring to our cabin for a full night’s sleep.

We arrived in Zeebrugge around 9am – refreshed and raring to go.

Clearing passport and customs took seconds and we were soon riding along the scenic coastline.

Our first destination was Ypres – a peaceful market town, packed with medieval architecture.

During the First World War, a third of a million British and Commonwealth soldiers died in the area and it’s impossible not to be touched by a visit to the Menin Gate, which is inscribed with the names of 55,000 men whose bodies were never even found.

We spent the night at the Ambrosia Hotel, which is a small, family- run and friendly hotel just 100 yards from the main square. Prices start from 75 euros for a double room and a cooked breakfast.

The next morning, we set off through the countryside, stopping at one of the numerous First World War cemeteries.

We were struck, not only by the meticulous manner in which the graves were tended, but also by a stone shelter containing records of soldiers buried there. Despite being open to anyone to handle, the records were all in good condition.

Another fact you notice in Belgium is that, with the exception of some of the bigger cities, there is virtually no litter or graffiti.

We cycled through more countryside and canal paths before reaching the town of Kortrijk, where, having ridden 35 miles, we caught a train the remaining 50 miles to Ghent.

The guard had no issue with storing our bikes in one of the carriages.

After a night spent in the medieval charm of Ghent, we set off to ride the 35 miles along canal banks to Bruges.

Half-way along the route, the grey skies opened and we were caught in a torrential downpour. Dressed in our waterproofs, we were able to keep going, taking occasional shelter in some of the many coffee shops or bars that line the route.

While the weakness of the pound against the euro has made Belgium more expensive, the prices are only fractionally higher than those you’d pay in Britain.

It was late afternoon when we arrived in Bruges – one of Europe’s prettiest cities.

After a long hard ride, we decided to spoil ourselves with a night of splendid luxury at the Heritage Hotel. With double rooms starting at 164 euros per person per night, it certainly was not cheap, but we’d earned it.

The Heritage is central and, while dining out in Bruges costs roughly one and a half times what it might in the UK, wandering through the quaint back lanes, appreciating the splendid architecture and sauntering along the banks of the canals costs nothing.

On the fourth and final day we rode 20 miles from Bruges to the seaside resort of Blankenberge.

The promenade is lined with amusement arcades, coffee bars and beach huts and is reminiscent of a British resort 30 years ago.

One of the attractions is a wooden cycle arena where, for two euros, you could spend 15 minutes trying to ride a range of weird and wonderful bikes. They included machines with oval wheels and others with handlebars which turned the bike right if you turned left – and vice-versa.

It was fantastic, innocent fun and the perfect way to round off a great holiday, before we rode the final three miles back to Zeebrugge to catch our ferry home.

When it comes to holidays, I usually don’t like to return somewhere I’ve already seen but, for the Flanders Cycle Route, I’ll make an exception.

■ For further information on Flanders, contact Tourism Flanders-Brussels on 0207-307- 7738 or visitflanders.co.uk