Sloping off to Andorra

MY young daughter’s eyes lit up with excitement and bewilderment – like her mum, she’d never been on a winter holiday before, and the sight of the snow-topped Pyrenees peaks had them both in awe.

We were on a coach in southern France en route to Andorra, where it turned out to be even colder than the bitter British winter we’d left behind.

Once described as a cross between the mythical valley of Shangri-La and Heathrow airport’s duty-free malls, Andorra nestles in the Pyrenees between France and Spain.

It’s a tiny principality, but prosperous due to the nine million visitors who come each year for its majestic snow-topped peaks and tariff-free goods – not to mention its tax-haven status.

The resort of Pal-Arinsal has become one of the most popular in the region by offering the holy trinity to skiers: competitive prices, wellgroomed slopes and a party atmosphere.

When myself, Rachel and twoyear- old Isla arrived in the town, our first impression was a skiing nirvana with plenty of winter sports shops and bars centred on the gondola.

Thanks to an abundance of snowfall, and snow canons up top if needed, the slopes open earlier than usual each year, and the new Seturia cablecar system between Arinsal and Pal has created the largest skiing area in the Pyrenees at a whopping 140km.

Meanwhile, in the summer months tourists can go walking, parasailing and go-carting. There’s also the Mountain Bike World Cup each May.

Our home for the week was the English-run aparthotel Sant Andreu, and the meal on the Sunday evening was a welcome roast buffet.

After breakfast next morning, it was a five-minute walk down the hill to the gondola and up to Vallnord ski park for our first day’s skiing.

Rachel and I were immediately impressed by the feeling of the Skippy Park creche adjacent to the slopes which cares for kids from new-born up to those slightly older than Isla.

The place seemed very secure, and judging by Isla’s reaction to the plentiful Mickey Mouse toys, pushchairs and art boards, she was won over too.

Mummy and daddy then joined ski school groups, which are specially tailored for British tourists.

As a “fresher” skier, Rachel and the other beginners started out on the “magic carpet” with her instructor Clive, and learned the usual firstday basics including the snow plough, sliding and turning.

Meanwhile, I joined an intermediate group led by an Argentinean instructor called Andres, who made it his goal to refine my parallel skiing technique over the next five days.

The school runs each day between 9.30am and midday, so in the afternoons Rachel and I were able to practise and spend some time together.

Plastic pull-along sledges can be hired for three euros, and this proved to be a bargain, as our adventurous daughter was in her element going up and down the small hills.

AFTER a couple of misty days, the weather was much improved by Wednesday, and thanks to the crystal-clear blue skies and the bright sunshine, the views of the Pyrenees made for our most enjoyable day of the holiday.

That evening we had a couple of drinks during the hotel’s two-for-one happy hour, before partaking in the typical Brit-abroad pastime of watching football on Sky Sports.

On the fifth day, Rachel had her first trip up the six-man chairlift and was shocked by the difference at the top. The mountains at the Arinsal summit are hemmed in on either side by ridges, and at times it seems like you are travelling down a long tunnel.

Moving further along to the slopes of Pal, things get even more interesting.

The cable-car system provides advanced skiers with some pretty challenging red and black runs, and there’s also a coach trip available to the legendary pistes of Arcalis.

Due to the onset of wet and windy weather, our end-of-week slalom time-trials had to be cancelled, and after looking at the weather forecast, Rachel and I decided that Friday would be our final day of skiing.

That afternoon, although we were relieved to return our heavy equipment, we were sad that our skiing adventure was at an end.

The Derby Irish bar is the haunt of the Vallnord instructors, and on Friday evening the three of us popped in so Clive and Andres could present us with our skiing diplomas.

Later that night, I ventured out to sample Arinsal’s night life, namely heavy drinking and bad dancing at El Cau’s weekly Seventies night.

Sam and the rest of the reps donned their Village People attire and took part in the traditional Full Monty at the end of the night, as I stumbled back to the San Andreu at 3am worse for wear after a few too many San Miguels and shots.

On our final day, we took Isla on a bus trip to the town of Andorra La Vella, where we did some duty-free shopping in the Hipa Andorra and had lunch in one of the tapas bars.

Andorra La Vella is also home to the Caldea complex, where visitors can relax in the linked indoor and outdoor pools, saunas and Turkish baths, which have no doubt contributed to Andorrans’ life expectancy being the highest on the planet at an average of 83-and-a-half years.

The vicious storms in the area got so bad on the Saturday that the ski lifts closed at lunchtime. However, thanks to a snowplough and a switch of departure airports, the three of us left with a minimum of fuss.

Contrast this to the week after we arrived back home in late January, when the UK experienced its heaviest snow in almost two decades – only a dusting really – which brought the country’s infrastructure to a shuddering halt.

If only the Andorran authorities had struggled in the same manner, then we might have been stranded in Arinsal for a few more days.

If only, indeed.

TRAVELFACTS

Richard Jones was a guest of Crystal Ski, which offers seven nights’ half-board at the threestar Hotel Palarine in Arinsal from £399 this winter.

This includes return flights from Gatwick, and transfers, with many free and reduced price places available for children (two to 11).

Ski lift passes for Vallnord ski park and surrounding area cost £28 per day, with ski school tuition around £105 per person for 15 hours. Children up to age 11 get free lift passes.

Skippy Park creche is £75 for five days, three hours per day (same times as ski school).

Regional departures include Manchester (£23) and Birmingham (£22).

Crystal reservations: 0871-231- WOW FACTOR: The new Seturia cable-car system between Arinsal and Pal 2256 or crystalski.co.uk