Wine on the Rhine

IT is a fairytale cruise. Castles perched precariously on hilltops float by, with every bend in the river offering fresh vistas and surprises. The first splash of autumn tinges the trees and among the carefully-trimmed vineyards, workers are bringing in the harvest. The Middle Rhine – a Unesco World Heritage Site – is a land of legends, of slain dragons and an inspiration to generations of artists and musicians.

On board the Rex Rheni, comfortable cabins and fine food and service rounds off the experience. If the essence of sailing with Saga Holidays could be bottled it would be labelled “Pure Pampered Pleasure”.

Our party meets the luxurious vessel half way through its ten-day cruise on the River Moselle at Trier, Germany’s oldest city. Built in 16BC, the entrance is dominated by the largest surviving Roman gate, known as the Porta Nigra on account of its coating of centuries of soot.

The 100ft structure owes its survival to the fact that it was converted to a church. It was in this city that Emperor Constantine converted to Christianity, and by ironic twist, it was the birthplace of the father of atheist communism, Karl Marx.

With its picturesque market square, surrounded by 15th Century buildings and Romanesque cathedral, it would be a nice a place to linger. But there are places to go and much more to see.

After a comfortable first night on the Rex Rheni, we wake to the gentle thrum of the engine. Outside a soft mist blankets the River Moselle, lifting tantalisingly to reveal the heart of the German wine-growing region.

Verdant terraced valleys, sweeping bends and the steepest vineyards in the world are some of the features of this, the longest tributary of the Rhine. The subsoil here has a particular property that ensures the maturing grapes reach the cellars in peak condition – absorbing the sun’s rays during the day and releasing the heat during the night, thereby keeping them warm.

Our evening is spent in the town of Traben-Trarbach, once the second largest wine-trading centre in Europe, after Bordeaux. A fine meal is rounded off with a visit to the cellars of Karl Caspari, who represents the sixth generation of the same family working here.

The following morning, we follow the twists and turns of the Moselle, past Cochem’s grand 11th Century imperial castle, before we meet the mighty Rhine.

It is obvious that barons of yore were trying to outdo each other in the grandeur of their homes. The Stolzenfels Castle, with its yellow ochre paint, has a Mediterranean serenity about it. But the most elegant has to be Marksburg Castle; bathed in a mystical light as the sun sinks below the horizon. Medieval travellers must have been as awestruck as we were. Lived in for 700 years, it houses the headquarters of the German Castles Association.

The evening’s stopover is at Boppard, before we head on to the town of St Goar, with is famous Katz Castle and Burg Maus, otherwise known as the Cat and Mouse castles. The current quickens its pace as we pass the Loreley Rock, rising up at the river’s narrowest point.

A siren is said to have once sat on the rock, luring sailors to their deaths. Centuries ago a count ordered his men to exact his revenge on her after his son died on the Rhine. After being cornered in a cave, she escaped into the river, and the waves are said to play her song.

A highlight of the tour is a visit to the Siegfried’s Music Museum, which has Europe’s largest collection of mechanical music machines, from barrel organs to horn gramophones.

A grand piano gives a rousing rendition of a Liszt sonata.

The next day it is on to Mainz, the birthplace of the father of modern print, Johannes Gutenberg. Apart from a fascinating collection of printing paraphernalia, the museum houses three of the surviving Gutenberg bibles, of which only 200 were printed.

In the streets outside one can appreciate the ravages of the Second World War bombing. More than 80 per cent of the old town was razed to the ground and replaced with Fifties and Sixties shopping malls.

The day marks the furthest point we go down the Rhine and we turn back on ourselves to sail to Andernach and the romantic Drachenfels mountain, in the Siebengebirge range.

A rack and pinion railway built in 1883 takes us to the summit where, according to legend, Siegfried fought and slew the dragon.

After passing the former capital of Bonn, our journey terminates at Cologne, with its imposing cathedral that miraculously escaped the carpet- bombing of the RAF.

The trip is completed with a visit to Papa Joe’s in Alter Markt, where a mechanical accordion player and bassoonist pump out a jazz tunes.

Saga Holidays, which caters for the over-50s, has chartered the Dutch-owned Rex Rheni for this cruise. It has a spacious bar/lounge and partially-shaded sundeck with a small fitness area.

At full capacity, the crew ratio is one to six passengers, and staff go out of their way to ensure a personal touch. As for the food, it is quite exquisite and plentiful. There are activities on deck during the day and entertainment, with live music and games in the evening.

Travel facts

Majesty of the Middle Rhine cruise.

Ten nights from £949 per person, based on August 21 departure, travelling by return coach and ferry. Regional flights are available from Birmingham, Edinburgh, Manchester and Newcastle at an extra cost.

Price includes full board during the cruise, entertainment, welcome reception and dinner, cocktail party, standard class return rail or coach travel within the UK mainland.

Insurance and cancellation cover.

Saga Holidays: Freephone 800- 056-5880 saga.co.uk/travelshop