WITH the rise of hedonistic resorts like Marmaris, Turkish holidays have of recent years become blighted by the Brits abroad phenomenon.
However, there are still parts of the beautiful country left untouched by the ravages of sunburned students and their boozy exploits.
It is therefore with a heavy heart and the fear of causing a stampede that I reluctantly promote the unspoiled gem that is Cirali.
A mountainous two-hour drive will take you from Antalya airport to the tiny coastal village, home to less than 1,000 people and nestled within stunning scenery.
So rural is the location that the hamlet only got electricity in the 1980s, cash machines are nowhere to be found and there is no postal service.
While it very much still functions as a perfect escape from the hectic modern world, the village is slowly waking up to tourism and has accommodation to suit every traveller – whether it’s a precariously perched treehouse, a five-star hotel or a wooden bungalow at the foot of a mountain.
My boyfriend and I opted for the Canada Hotel, a family-friendly place situated a ten-minute walk from the village centre, made up as it is of several eateries and a scattering of shops.
We arrived at midnight and enjoyed freshly prepared Turkish meze before retiring to our delightful bungalow, tucked away at the bottom of a heavily-scented and well kept garden.
The family-run hotel made a perfect base for us, whether it was because of the swimming pool with its spectacular mountain view, the hammocks slung low between trees or the chickens roaming freely throughout the grounds.
Cirali has sporadic public transport in the form of a ‘dolmus’ bus that occasionally trundles through the village.
Other than that, it’s not particularly accessible and – especially when it comes to visiting nearby sights - visitors must rely on their own two feet, car hire or the generosity of their hosts.
The Canada Hotel is one of the village’s most distant hotels but more than makes up for that with free bike hire and regular shuttle buses to the pristine and peaceful beach that lies at the opposite end of the village.
Foodies are spoiled for choice– whether it was the inexpensive, home-cooked food at our hotel, Turkish pizza served al fresco or fresh pancakes smothered in honey, we reached the end of each day absurdly satisfied with our choices.
While there’s not a big drinking culture in the village, cocktails can be enjoyed while relaxing in double hammocks at the Kaptan bar and alcohol is on hand in every restaurant – though it’s not as cheap as it once was.
Nightcaps came in the form of specially-blended tea, sipped at a serene spot on the way into the village, a shop offering a range of incense, dessert and tea as well as sofas to lounge on.
Our trip wasn’t only about stuffing ourselves silly and soaking up the sunshine– we also managed to squeeze in bona fide cultural experiences along the way.
One memorable evening, we were bussed to the foot of a mountain for a night-time trek to the legendary Chimaera.
A steep 1km climb under starry skies is not for the faint-hearted but certainly worth the trek to see natural flames bursting out of mountain rock – said to be the breath of a trapped god.
Another adventure saw us wander along Cirali’s quiet beach to Olympos, a slightly more lively spot popular with hippies and backpackers.
On the beach is the entrance to the ancient city of Olympos, now lying in woodland ruin and yours to explore for the equivalent of £1.50.
We spent the day fighting our way through bracken and shrubbery to gape in wonder at the ruins of Roman-era bathhouses, a well-preserved amphitheatre and necropolis.
We explored other, more accessible ruins on a day trip to Phaselis, an ancient Greek and Roman site adjoining a picture perfect beach.
The area’s tourist-free credentials make it surprisingly difficult to pick up souvenirs for those back home and to send a post card, one must wait for shop-owners to make their next trip to Kumluca, the nearest town.
We visited Kumluca for its weekly market, hoping to pick up some treats for family and friends. However, there was not a tourist tea towel to be found – whether that’s a positive or a negative depends on how desperate your in-laws are for a new tea towel.
The market there was bustling and colourful, full of locals going about their daily business and crowded with the scent of spices and street food.
Another trip away from Cirali saw us board a boat for a day at sea, leisurely cruising the azure waters and mooring up at secluded coves where we’d jump from the side and swim to shore, hoping to spot the caretta caretta sea turtle in its natural habitat.
Animal lovers would be in their element here, with many species of wildlife easy to spot – whether it’s the aforementioned turtles, who lay their eggs at Cirali beach, the tiny frogs crowding clear streams, colourful shoals of fish or the omnipresent stray cats.
For two generally busy people aiming to escape the urban landscape for a while, Cirali had everything we could dream of – blue skies, quiet beaches, friendly people, interesting culture and divine food.
Monarch, the scheduled leisure airline, operates flights to Antalya from Manchester, London Gatwick, Leeds Bradford and London Luton (new for summer 14) airports with fares, including taxes, starting from £49.99 one way (£101.74 return).
For further information or to book Monarch flights, Monarch Holidays or Monarch Hotels, please visit www.monarch.co.uk
Rooms at the Canada Hotel start at 55 euro per night for a double. For more information, visit canadahotel.net.
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