Jenny Needham visits Edinburgh’s quirky quarter, erstwhile home of the city’s gallows

ON the other side of the castle from Edinburgh’s high-class shopping streets lies the Grassmarket district of Scotland’s capital. And visitors soon discover it has quite a history – gritty and gruesome.

At its centre lies the Bow Well, the first piped outlet of running water in Edinburgh, and the Covenanter’s memorial, a humble reminder of the Grassmarket’s place in history as the site of the city’s gallows.

The history of the Grassmarket and the gallows are inextricably linked: it is difficult to think of them without your head conjuring up images of body snatcher Burke and Hare, and “half-hingit Maggie”, who actually survived the experience.

After being strung up in 1724, Maggie’s body was bound for Musselburgh and burial when a knocking was heard from the coffin. Maggie had revived; the law concluded it was God’s will, and she was freed to live another 40 years.

You can drink to her survival in one of the many lively, traditional pubs which line the Grassmarket.

These include The White Hart, a reminder of other historical figures who are known to have stayed here, including the poets Wordsworth and Scottish icon Robert Burns, who spent his last night in Edinburgh here in 1791.

The pubs here have a fantastic atmosphere, plenty of real ales to choose from, and lots of live music.

If you want a convivial night out, it’s a great place to be, a popular meeting place for visitors and locals alike, with an eclectic mix of excellent restaurants nearby on steep and atmospheric Victoria Street.

This is also a quirky and creative corner of the city and dedicated craftsmen and artisans have set up shop here. In contrast to the well-known names and labels of the city’s famous Princes Street, more than 90 per cent of the shops here are independent.

On Saturdays the Grassmarket also hosts a market from 10am to 5pm.

The Northern Echo:
The National Galleries of Scotland

So after you’ve enjoyed a day’s shopping and an evening’s imbibing in this vibrant and colourful quarter, where can you lay your weary head?

We stayed at The Knight Residence, just a couple of minutes’ walk from the Grassmarket, a short shimmy from the lap dancing club and the tattoo parlour. And although the apartments are close to so many great pubs, nothing disturbed our sleep.

The bedroom and sitting room windows looked out over a quiet courtyard, the beds were comfortable, and most important (and often such a let-down), so were the pillows.

It was our first time at an apartotel and I can well understand why they are becoming an increasingly popular choice for city stays. They offer more space than a hotel room, and more freedom, making them a great choice for business travellers and families.

The Northern Echo:
The view up to the castle from the Grassmarket

There’s a concierge to iron out any problems and book tickets and taxis, and no worry about what time breakfast is served – all the food basics are provided in the kitchen, so you can rise whenever it suits you. And as a globe-trotting friend once told me, however nice a hotel and its restaurant are, it’s still a hotel and after a couple of nights it’s nice to eat “at home”.

Here, you can shop at the supermarket on the corner, cook in the well-equipped kitchen and eat in the dining area. For families, this also means you can avoid the “over-tired child wailing at the formal dining table” scenario.

As a previous guest had noted in the visitors’ book, staying in an apartotel makes “an excellent change from hotel life. I stay a lot in hotels for my job and I was here for three weeks”.

The Northern Echo:
Victoria Street, home to restaurants and independent shops

Sadly, we could only stay for two nights, but having our own little pad in the city was a lovely, relaxing way to visit. If you’re thinking of following in our foosteps, though, it might be a good idea to wait until the Scots have got over last weekend’s Six Nations drubbing at Murrayfield. They might just be tempted to re-erect those Grassmarket gallows for any Englishmen who dare to go up there and crow about it.

  • The Knight Residence, 12 Lauriston Street, Edinburgh EH3 9DJ. Call 0131-622-8120 or visit theknightresidence.co.uk. Apartments for two people from £97 per night and twobedroom apartments, which can sleep up to five people, from £127 per night.
  • Visitors can travel by East Coast train to Edinburgh Waverley station, in the heart of Scotland’s capital. Standard advance returns to Edinburgh from North-East stations, booked online at eastcoast.co.uk, start from £18. Times and fares also on 08457-225225, or from staffed stations and rail travel agents.

What’s on in Edinburgh

MARCH:

The talent of emerging artists, musicians, writers and performers is on show when The Hidden Door arts collective takes over 24 disused vaults on Market Street from March 8 to 16. hiddendoorblog.org

APRIL:

Justin Timberlake brings his explosive 20/20 Experience world tour to the SSE Hydro on April 4 and 5. thehydro.com

MAY:

Strap on your running shoes for the Edinburgh Marathon Festival on May 24 and 25. All abilities welcome. edinburgh-marathon.com

JUNE:

Film buffs are in for a treat as the Edinburgh International Film Festival returns from June 18 to 29. edfilmfest.org.uk