An organic farm is milking the applause after being recognised nationally for its efforts. Ian Lamming reports

‘THAT’S a pretty cow, there,” says organic dairy farmer Caroline Tweddle as she picks her favourites for a photoshoot.

And it’s true – the milker has got a lovely face and big, alluring eyes.

While most people just see cows in a field and white stuff in their tea, the brother and sister team who run one of the region’s rarest “breeds” – an organic dairy farm, a wholesome island in a sea of intensive production – have spent more than a decade pointing out the benefits of going green.

When you do start to look closely at the Acorn Dairy herd, the cows look different.

They are smaller, slimmer, with bright expressions and luxuriant coats. They actually look happy and when they hit the speciallyconstructed “‘soft” walkways they trot merrily to the milking parlour, where they deposit their finest, which is rich in anti-oxidants, Omega 3 and taste.

The organic dairy, which prides itself on farming the old-fashioned way, is reaping the benefits – an expanding and appreciative customer base and now the highest possible national accolade. Acorn Dairy has been just been awarded the organic equivalent of an Oscar by the industry body the Soil Association, beating fierce competition from around the country.

Winner of the Best Organic Dairy Award 2012, judges were said to be “impressed and inspired by both the work on the farm, the retail operation and commitment to customers, delivering organic dairy products at a fair price, as well as a demonstrable commitment to the broader organic ethos”. As well as the overall award, products won high praise in a blind tasting, including highly commended for the dairy’s whole milk and a commendation for butter.

Acorn Dairy, which farms at Archdeacon Newton, Darlington and Spennithorne, near Leyburn, North Yorkshire, will now be able to carry the Soil Association Organic Foods Awards logo, a mark recognised and valued throughout the food industry.

Graham Tweddle helped his father, Gordon, convert the farm to organic in 1998 and in 2004 Caroline joined them in the business. It now delivers door-to-door to more than 4,000 customers across North Yorkshire, the Tees Valley and the North East, and to shops including Waitrose and Morrisons, restaurants, cafes and schools.

The 190-strong herd of traditional dairy shorthorn cows are fed on grass and clover grown naturally, free from chemical fertilisers and without the need to resort to artificial feeds and antibiotics.

THE low intensity farming results in a much lower yield, but the milk is tastier, contains more anti-oxidants and Omega 3, normally found in just fish oil, and is a much more humane way to farm. As a result, cows live longer, healthier lives. One cow has just been retired at the age of 14, where most intensively farmed cows do well to reach seven or eight.

“We are just a small farm operating in a largely non-organic market in this region,” says Graham. “We are a little organic island in a largely intensively farmed area and considered quirky. The majority of organic farming is centred in the South-West and we are delighted to have done so well against some massively strong opposition.”

Caroline adds: “We are passionate about organic dairy farming, which benefits everyone – consumers, wildlife and cows. This award vindicates the hard work put in over the past decade and inspires us to continue towards our goals.”

Awards judge and lifestyle consultant Jo Woods says organic farming makes perfect sense. “If we grow food from healthy soil then we naturally have a healthy organic chemicalfree diet, which goes in unison towards living a more sustainable life.”

Acorn Dairy prides itself on animal welfare, with special attention given to cows’ feet, a regular source of injury and infection. The soft walkways allow them easy access from the fields to the milking parlour and teams inspect and treat hooves regularly to prevent problems.

The farm has also become a haven for wildlife, offering shelter to nearly 70 local and migratory species of birds, bird boxes boasting a 90 per cent occupancy rate and ponds in a 16- acre reversion meadow offering a diverse habitat for wildlife.

Oak trees are being planted to replace those affected by disease, age and storms and 2.4km of hawthorn hedge has been laid, providing home and safe passage for many animals. The farm also uses glass bottles, which prevent 168 tonnes of plastic a year going into landfill.

Gordon adds: “About 15 years ago we started to question what we were doing to the cows to produce big volumes of white water at the lowest cost. Where was it going to end? A thousand cows who never graze, producing tasteless food? So we opted to convert to organic, which took us two years to achieve and I believe provides security for the long-term future of farming.

“It is all natural, like we used to farm up to the 1950s, with well-proven techniques based on rotations and reduced intensity. Lots of natural grazing in the outdoors means the animals don’t become ill, so we don’t need drugs and chemicals to keep them going.

“It’s a win-win situation for everyone.”

  •  For more details aboutAcorn Dairy, visit acorndairy.co.uk