Flap-ability

FUELLED by the Great Gatsby blockbuster to be released on May 16, the beauty world is getting into a flap about flappers. Perfectly rouged lips, pin curls and sultry eyes – the society gal style inspired by the likes of character Daisy Buchanan is a history lesson in retro chic.

“These glamorous looks reflect the confident, sultry, yet coy image that women aspired to during this period,” says Hannah Wing, author of new book Vintage Beauty Parlour.

You don’t need a full hair and make-up team to recreate the big screen looks as sported by actresses Carey Mulligan and Isla Fisher.

Women who couldn’t afford make-up in the Twenties often used burned matchstick debris mixed with petroleum jelly to darken their lashes and crushed flower petals to concoct cheek and lip tints.

Slather on the sun cream and step away from the self-tan to create an authentic 1920s glow. “Sunkissed skin was championed in the latter part of the decade, but pale skin was fashionable throughout the Twenties,” says Hannah. “Ivory-coloured powder was often applied to the face to create the desirable pale complexion.”

Make-up was mostly dramatic, with an emphasis on either block colour eyeshadow in dark shades of grey or green, or a small, full doll-like lip defined with a dark colour.

• Vintage Beauty Parlour by Hannah Wing (Ryland Peters & Small, £14.99)

Brilliant bow

AN ordinary pout just won’t do for a Twentiesinspired look. “Create the luscious illusion of Cupid’s bow lips in a deep shade of plum,”

Hannah Wing suggests. Here’s how to get the look: 􀁥 Using a foundation brush, apply foundation over the entire lip area to mask the natural lip line. Stretch your lips to blend the foundation into the creases to create an even surface. This will act as a primer for the lip liner and lipstick.

• Use a deep red or plum lip liner to subtly decrease the width of your natural lip line.

Draw the outline of the Cupid’s bow onto the lips, pronouncing the rise and fall of the centre of the top lip. Join the top and bottom lines so that your lips appear smaller.

• Fill in the newly-created Cupid’s bow shape using the lip liner. Make sure that both sides are exact mirror images of each other so that the shape is symmetrical.
• Apply a dark shade of red or plum matte lipstick with a lip brush for precision. Blot the lips with a tissue to remove any excess and apply a second coat of lipstick. Blot again to finish.

Faux and fabulous

IN the Twenties, long locks were out of favour. “Elfin hairstyles worn close to the head were the height of fashion during the decade, with many women chopping off their tresses in favour of a controversial bobbed haircut,” says Hannah Wing.

If in doubt, fake it, and here’s how:

1 Set the hair using large heated rollers, curling under and taking care to lift the roots. When set, remove the rollers and divide the hair into sections, one on either side of the parting, one at the crown of the head and one at the hairline behind each ear.

2 Hold each section in place with clips.

Starting with the sections behind each ear, backcomb the hair very lightly from the roots, getting heavier towards the ends.

3 Release the section pinned at the crown and gently comb the back section upwards from the roots. Secure the hair with hair grips above the nape of the neck, slightly overlapping them in a horizontal line.

4 Using your fingers, roll the back section of hair under to create a large roll all across the back of the head. Pin on the inside of the roll to secure hair in place.

5 Take one of the side sections of hair and roll it under across one side of the head.

Pin on the inside of the roll under the ear to secure it.

6 Repeat on the other side, then pin all the way around on the inside of the rolls with grips. Smooth the hair down with a comb so that the bob shape is even. Finish with hairspray for a smooth finish.